FOSSCAD - Making Our Own Guns

With all of the happenings going on around the Pulse nightclub shooting and the Democrats trying to push new gun control schemes, I think it's time to make a proper thread on the topic of making your own guns.

Anything to do with guns immediately falls into discussion of gun politics, and that goes double for making your own guns. When the Liberator came into being the libshits collectively shit themselves over nothing and will shit themselves again as soon as the topic is brought up. The fact that the feds tried to block it via ITAR immediately makes this a matter of politics. Furthermore, getting involved in making guns has become a political act in the 21st century. And it's unkosher as fuck, making it immediately a politically incorrect thing to do. So yes, this thread does belong here.

With that out of the way, I'd like to discuss:
-How far DIY guns have come under FOSSCAD
-What FOSSCAD is, and where it came from
-What are the limitations of 3D printing, and potential workarounds
-How you can help expand this field of research
-Any other questions you have

I'd like to begin by showing you how far FOSSCAD hasn't come along by showing you what I would argue are the two most advanced models created by the collective.

Shuty MP-1
See the embedded video

The Shuty is a straight blowback 9mm pistol that utilizes a printed AR 15 lower receiver. It is mostly printed, and utilizes minimal machining of metal parts, such as the bolt, which requires no welding. The downside of the Shuty is that it requires a Glock barrel, as well as pre-made springs.

Washbear
See pic

The Washbear is a .22 LR pepper-box revolver with an 8 round cylinder. It's advantages are that it uses no gun specific parts, and the only significant metal pieces are the barrel inserts, which are just seamless steel tubing. The downside of the Washbear is it's very small caliber.

Now, if you are particularly perceptive, you should be able to see the problem here. If not, let me break it down for you:
-Both these models can only fire handgun rounds
-The Shuty is currently useless without a Glock barrel, meaning in a situation where guns are banned, nobody will be making new Shuty guns.
-We're currently limited to the most simple gun designs out there.
-Both guns rely on pre-manufactured ammunition, which in case of an ammo ban or shortage makes either gun useless.

To add to these problems, what you didn't know is that both those designs were worked on by only a few people each. The Washbear was designed solely by Patrick IV, and the Shuty was originally designed by Shadowfall, then fixed to working order and updated by Derwood.

In my next post, I'll get into what FOSSCAD is, it's history, and some information about 3d printing.

Other urls found in this thread:

mega.nz/#F!zxM0gZ5b!9cYmSsdK8cMj1xEo8KpW6Q
archive.org/details/defdistdefcadfosscad-201602
mega.nz/#!qEskWKKD!HjW_J4IrMGTmbWIh-59WQnrCtnkv5ja2beKNHhX_854
ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/electric_ignition/eignition.html
youtube.com/watch?v=bjasSGZd40s
sendspace.com/file/kgn4xq
youtube.com/watch?v=lZT7VHVSlTo
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

FOSSCAD and its History
FOSSCAD has always been an undirected group of enthusiasts, and with a small pool of designers and testers, progress on anything is slow. The website, twitter account, and IRC channel are all run by Duces, who hasn't updated the website in years at this point, hence the crappy cat memes. There are usually 20-30 people in the chat at a given time with a total of 50 recurring people logging in.

FOSSCAD was originally called DEFCAD. Among its members was Cody Wilson, who paid some of the members to help design the Liberator. When the modelers he hired created the liberator, he got an FFL license and wanted to make a company, so he took the name DEFCAD and the group became FOSSCAD. Shortly after that Cody left, and FOSSCAD only got in the news a few times with the work on designs such as the Imura revolver and a few other models. Ever since the middle of last year however, news about FOSSCAD has almost completely dried up, and the group is no longer attracting anyone via the media.

3D Printing
Any printer used in FOSSCAD is going to be a FFF/FDM printer. What that means is that it can print plastic parts layer by layer, out of several different polymers. The most basic printer can print 1 material at a time, while some printers can print 2, or theoretically 3 types of plastic in a single print. Anything printed with a 3d printer will leave behind small layer lines, and depending on the filament may be weaker when strained against the grain of the print. Certain materials can be smoothed with acetone, and some can withstand greater temperatures than others.

Here's a breakdown of a few materials and their properties

ABS
ABS is the plastic used for a lot of injection molding. Your mouse and keyboard are made out of injection molded ABS. ABS is one of the two most commonly used plastics for 3d printing. It can be smoothed or dissolved in acetone, and the plastic has decent heat resistance (warping at about 100C). ABS is also decent at absorbing shock, however when printed its layer adhesion is poor, and it tends to shrink, leading to undersized holes for parts and warping, if the print is not correctly done. Furthermore it leaves a lot of fumes that you don't want to breathe in. ABS is often recommended over PLA when printing gun parts, because it can withstand shock better.

PLA
PLA is the other most commonly used material for 3d printing. It is a plastic made from corn starch, and used for biodegradable disposable silverware. It prints with virtually no warping, and has strong layer adhesion. However, it is brittle and cannot withstand shock very well. PLA also has poor thermal tolerance, warping at 50-60C. PLA is the plastic used for the Shuty MP-1, as the gun doesn't really suffer from the effects of shock to its parts. It is resistant to solvents, so it cannot be dissolved. Aside from a sweet smell, it is safe to print in the open.

Nylon
Nylon is a very strong, flexible material that is often mixed with glass fibers in injection molding to make it rigid. It's the plastic used for Glock frames. In 3d printing, the only source of nylon filament is through Taulman, who makes a wide variety of nylon based filaements. Nylon prints with strong layer adhesion, and can withstand both shock and temperature well. However it is not able to be smoothed with any solvents, and it emits a lot of harmful fumes. It also warps aggressively and is difficult to print with. Nylon is used for barrels for the Songbird .22lr pistol (see embedded video)

PETG
PET is relatively new to 3d printing, and thus hasn't been tried for any FOSSCAD designs yet. the plastic used for a lot of disposable items, such as water bottles. It is a decently strong material, with moderate thermal resistance (warps at 100C). It has very low warping, and good layer adhesion. It is resistant ot solvents so it cannot be smoothed.

Polycarbonate
While some lower receivers for AR 15 have been printed in PC, it's left relatively unused. The material possesses a lot of characteristics with nylon, except it is very receptive to solvents, and is even more difficult to print with.

From this group of materials, we can determine several limitations to 3d printing:
-Barrels and chambers for any gun meant to last will need to have steel parts
-bolts, expecially locking bolts will need to be made from steel parts, or have steel inserts
-Parts near the barrel will either need to be made of metal, or designed such as to utilize methods to disperse heat.

How you can help
FOSSCAD needs people. This includes but is not limited to people who have 3d printers, people with machining tools, people who know about modeling in computer programs, and people who have guns that can provide information on their design. Hell, FOSSCAD is so small that we can even take in idea guys to help come up with new directions for projects. Even if you don't know anything, you can still learn and contribute to the group.

FOSSCAD mostly communicates within its IRC channel at
OFTC.net
#FOSSCAD

Questions
I will be around all day to answer any questions, and to discuss more information about what I know about gun design.

Oh, the image didn't load for the first post. here it is

Why not just move to a civilized nation that allows guns?

Because running away doesn't solve your problems. Don't be such a coward.

Listen friendo, even though US has "based" gun laws, its a pretty fucked up country. Your culture is shit, everything is degenerate as fuck, jew HQ etc.

Just move to US for guns is the most stupidest shit an European could do.

I think you meant to post on /k/ friendo

I think you need to read the first paragraph, nigger


Anything to do with guns immediately falls into discussion of gun politics, and that goes double for making your own guns. When the Liberator came into being the libshits collectively shit themselves over nothing and will shit themselves again as soon as the topic is brought up. The fact that the feds tried to block it via ITAR immediately makes this a matter of politics. Furthermore, getting involved in making guns has become a political act in the 21st century. And it's unkosher as fuck, making it immediately a politically incorrect thing to do. So yes, this thread does belong here.

Some anons backed up the most recent FOSSCAD archives to mega and archive.org if ya'll wanna look:

DEFDIST DEFCAD FOSSCAD Archive (Updated 04-28-16)

mega.nz/#F!zxM0gZ5b!9cYmSsdK8cMj1xEo8KpW6Q

DEFDIST DEFCAD FOSSCAD Archive (Last Updated 02-07-2016)

archive.org/details/defdistdefcadfosscad-201602

Fuck your glue-gun 3d printer plastic Mattel toy bullshit. Quit sipping pussy juice and learn how to make stuff out of steel and aluminum. I'm not sure what kind of tolerances a 3d printer has, but I'm like 99% sure I can do better with a milling machine/lathe and a file.

Also, Cody Wilson is a leftist edgelord.

We've come out with a new megapack since then, let me see if there's a mega link for it, if not I'll provide the torrent links.


Ok genius, how many gun designs have you made that can be easily replicated without $10k+ tooling? If you fucking read what I wrote I already put in detail the limits of 3d printing.


filtered

I know nothing about 3D printers. Can you print other kinds of weapons? Any sort of blade that won't snap in half immediately? A crossbow?

i don't really think these plastic things will hold up to the heat generated from firing….. most of this shit will melt/deform in hot tap water.

Stop being such a bitch, he only talked about fosscad cuz thats was his contribution to the thread. What I understands, he wants to make this to a general how to make your own weapons thread. Give us advice how to make a gun with a milling machine then bro, instead of trying to derail

Honestly it would be easier to make a crude blade out of metal than to try and print one. As for a crossbow, you could possibly rig something up like one of Jorg Sprave's theraputic rubber designs.


That's an over-exaggeration on thermal tolerances, but I already mentioned that issue. I am in no way proclaiming that we can make guns entirely out of plastic, and I never fucking did.

Here's a mega link to the Shuty MP-1, it includes instructions
mega.nz/#!qEskWKKD!HjW_J4IrMGTmbWIh-59WQnrCtnkv5ja2beKNHhX_854

You are not on 4cuck, friendo. Infinity /k/ will allow you to talk gun politics. This is the wrong board. Stop shilling your warez here.

A LEGEND IN HIS OWN MIND

Fair enough. Look into parts kits. You can order every part of a gun (minus the reciever) and put it together yourself for about half the cost of actually buying the gun. You can get full auto parts easily as well as long as you don't mind getting raped by Jamal in prison. The receivers you need are also easily aquired. There are torch cut receivers which can be welded back together, and reciever flats which must be bent into shape with a shop press and usually a drill press is needed to open up the holes a bit more. A parts kit for a British sten gun is about 90 bucks and a Hungarian AK-47 (called an AMD-65) is about 300 dollars. If you want to build one and not ruin your life, you will have to stamp certain information onto the reciever and you're not allowed to sell the gun to anyone.

Infinite ammo


You could probably even use a pipe shitgun or a flaregun with a .38spl/.357 insert.

This is the most practical setup I've come across; almost zero commercial "gun" parts and not a crap ton of detail work.


can someone webm these vids?

...

And a quick example of the flaregun insert

>Make sure to buy our beautiful Tavor rifles Remember da Shoah when you get gassed in the face!
>Politics is all about talking not about exercising your rights privileges
Filtered.


this is interesting, and may have some potential, however he does mention that match heads are corrosive. I know of one guy who came up with an electric ignition system, and I plan to buy the parts and make one myself in the future. ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/electric_ignition/eignition.html

I will experiment with lost-polymer casting to try and get usable brass and aluminum components from basic PLA 3d prints.

Probably not worse than black powder or old surplus ammo. Just have to rinse the salts away. Some people use windex, others just hot water.

Al shrinkage is roughly 7% sand casting, the plastic shrinks about 2% when printing just fyi; designs should be 9% larger.

I'm interested in Ghost Gunner. Does anyone have one? Is it reliable?

Ghost Gunner

youtube.com/watch?v=bjasSGZd40s

There's also 0% AR kits. You get a jug of polymer plastic and a mold. It's pretty dumb and not worth the price but I guess if making guns our of plastic is your thing….

It's a cnc milling machine that's small as fuck.

Not useful for the price imo, I can pick up a used mill for $2,000 that can do more than just AR lowers (think recoilless rifles)

You completely failed to name one. Name a country that has better gun laws than America.

meh, it's an overpriced, undersized machine. I haven't heard of any reliability issues, but there's better ways to spend your money if you just want an AR lower without a paper trail.

Panama.
Literally, that's it.
You can own short barrel rifles/shotguns, there aren't any importation restrictions, no magazine capacity limit, you can concealed-carry anything you want without a license. You could legally carry a sawed-off shotgun in a trench coat in Panama.

...

I saved this a while back. I can't speak to how well it would work in reality, but if it does it's good for a nogunz situation

This is interesting, dammit.
pls fuck off

There is a thread at the top of /k/right now on virtually the same subject.

A four winds shotgun costs under $20 to make and can be split into 4 pipes for concealment. Get fucked nigger.

History of fosscad means shit, only the guns themselves matter.

To anyone looking for an alt to the US: daily reminder uruguay had legal guns and weed but their gun laws aint as based.

4 winds shotgun is single shot, difficult to reload, and doesn't even have a proper fucking grip, what the fuck are you even talking about, retard?

after hearing about how the federal government went around after Katrina and just took everyones guns

it is absolutely important to have your own guns that you built from 80% lowers

pf940 & ar15 at the minimum.

heck build a sten if u can

this is a pdf just change extension after you maximize image
very easy to make when SHTF and 9mm ammo will be pretty abundant as most law enforcement and negros use it

The gun itself doesn't matter and never mattered.
We have so many metal workers in germany that any kind of somewhat organized resistance would have very little problem producing guns.


Ammunition is where things get retarded. Bullets go for 10 euro per round while you can get a lot of guns for only twice the retail price on the black market.

Kill them

assuming you can get your hand on ammo (which most countries you can easily enough) you want to be building your firearm with two kinds of ammo, either centrefire rimmed like the .303 British, if you have the balls to fire something that big with a diy gun. if not .38 Special is ok or shotgun shells. shotguns preferably, because they don't need a rifled barrel and case rupture wont damage your barrel

honesty, just to get started and used to metalwork/gunsmithing, start with something the rednecks call a "slamfire shotgun". you can pick up everything you need from your local hardware store.
>one 20mm pipe barrel
>one threaded 25mm pipe (or whatever pipe the 20mm will fit snug inside reciever
>one cap with a pin welded to the middle, that screws onto the 25 mm pipe (pin must be sturdy bolt
>a chunk of wood stock

weld the pin to the cap(make sure it's dead center), you now have a bolt. screw the bolt onto the reciever. cut your chunk of wood into a stock shape (I recommend chiseling a groove where the barrel fits in). weld some bracing to your receiver, then drill it secure to your stock. you can get strip bracing which is a strip of metal with holes in it, using a screw driver and power drill you can get it really tight and secured nicely. then just slip your barrel into your receiver. if you want, you can weld a forward grip to the barrel which makes it a little less awkward to fire.
yes.
after you're good at making that, you can cut a port in your receiver, and attach a spring between the barrel and receiver. then just add some kind of pin that holds the barrel in place with the receiver, and pull it out to let the barrel fall back onto the bolt. I've seen people add all kinds of weird contraptions here, but you can just have a switch that does the same thing. then you'll have vid related.

anyway that's my input. start with basic welding and craftsmanship, then work up. don't try to make a 9mm full auto straight away, you'll blow your face off in an instant.

this is what you'll get without the spring/release system

This will be awesome to make

Can some glorious user provide instructions for assembling the revolver?

Bump from the dead

ye

Here's the instructions from the readme:

#### Printing
* DO NOT USE PLA
* Requires a print bed of at least 11" diameter or at least 10" x 6" rectangular area.
* All printed parts are to be printed with 100% infill, with maximum shells. Print in ABS unless otherwise instructed.
* If using chamber inserts, the cylinder parts may be printed in ABS.
* If using a 100% printed Cylinder Assembly, the Front Cylinder Assembly and Rear Index Ring MUST be printed in Nylon. Taulman Bridge is the only successful filament so far.
* Use plenty of support material.
* Print Frame and Grip on their right sides.
* Print Front Cylinder Assembly standing on its front end (larger end).
* Print Trigger on its left side.
* Print Striker, Guide Rod, and Sear on their sides.

#### Finishing
* DO NOT DRY FIRE
* DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN FRAME ABOVE CYLINDER
* Some parts require epoxy to assemble. Use a high strength epoxy made for ABS and Nylon, such as Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder.
* Install the legally required amount of detectable metal in the Grip using high-strength epoxy. Use acetone or epoxy to secure the Grip Cap.
* Use a 2mm, a 6mm, and an 8mm drill bit to ream appropriate holes.
* Use 1.75mm filament to secure the Grip Pin.
* Use a 1", 12 Gauge roofing nail with 0.281" head. 12 gauge is 2.680mm diameter.
* Grind tip of Firing Pin to a horizontal, 1mm-wide blade with 0.040" MAX protrusion. Trim the nail head to fit in the Striker. See CAD for dimensions.
* Use epoxy to secure the Firing Pin to the Firing Pin Retainer.
* Use epoxy or acetone welding to secure the Firing Pin and Firing Pin Retainer inside the front of the Striker.
* Use rubber bands or condoms to power the Striker, Trigger, and Sear. 1/4" dental bands have been used successfully.
* Use epoxy or acetone welding to bond the Rear Index Ring to the Front Cylinder Assembly. Sand rear surface of the Cylinder to fit.
* Chamber inserts are cut from 9/32" OD, 0.225" ID, 0.028" Wall 316 Stainless Steel tubing. McMaster-Carr part #1800T301
* Cut tubing into 34mm lengths and deburr.
* See renders for part layout.

The readme and files can be found at this link
sendspace.com/file/kgn4xq

Here. Make sure you save this one, even though Kurt Saxon may be senile, his spirit lives on.

Biggest issue isn't producing a gun, which is pretty easy but ammunition is much more difficult. Most of us outside of the US can't get our hands on any sort of ammunition or primer. Any suggestions for books or learning resources to help?

Here's a video on how to refill spent primers using a few simple tools and common boxes of matches. Also look into his video on Ammonium Triiodide (here: youtube.com/watch?v=lZT7VHVSlTo ) on how to make a chemical-based initiator/timer for high explosive charges. (wet= safe, dried out = unstable = boom!)