Nissan 720 4x4 King Cab Idle Problems

I currently own a 1985 Nissan 720 4x4 King Cab with the Z24 engine in it. All stock. Recently bout a couple of years ago, it has an idle problem where if the choke on the carb is all the way open, rpm's drop and kills the engine. So I did some research and most people say it's a bad anti-dieseling solenoid valve. Got a new one, just put it on today, didn't work, problem continued. That valve is supposed to make a clicking sound and I didn't hear any it does however have voltage and resistance though. It's supposed to have 12 volts to the valve to make it click so something is blocking the 12 volts from getting to the valve. Then I noticed that the oil pressure gauge reads zero. Now judging from all this, I'm thinking that the reason why the engine kills under idle AND light throttle is either cause of vacuum leaks or the oil pressure sending unit's shot. That's my guesstimate. If not that, what else could cause it? BTW, I didn't tamper with anything else.

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Turn ignition on & connect/disconnect plug to check solenoid operation.
Check fuses and earths for power supply problems.
Check vacuum lines for holes/blockages

Is the model with 8 spark plugs?

Paint flames on it. Flames = go faster

1. Yes it has 8 spark plugs.
2. Earths? Are you talking about ground wire? The solenoid reads off 3 volts when it really needs 12 to click.

3. We did the repetitive ignition on/off test and we heard no faint clicking.
4. We did see a little hose with 2 tiny rips down the middle.

What is the voltage from the plug supplying the solenoid? What is the resistance of wire on plug to fusebox?
It sounds like there is a wiring fault (short circuit) dropping voltage to solenoid so you will have to test back to fuse box for continuity/resistance.

forgot picture

The voltage reads off 3 volts. As for the resistance, we didn't check.

And my dad says that it's a pain in the butt to find so he fixed it by raising the idle rpm's up.

If the wire tests good to fusebox, then test across fuse, then check ignition switch - sometimes they can short across positions causing drop in voltage (and potential fire).


9 volts are missing so look to see what other systems are doing strange things/not working, but I have come across similar problems that have been ignition switch.
Check for on/off & voltage on back of ignition switch to see if voltage is correct and switch works properly.


Alleviates the symptoms without fixing the problem

Remember, this is my dad's truck. It's a beater. We use it only around our property, he doesn't drive it to work anymore so basically it's a farm truck. Plus he said that he's just gonna run it till it can't run no more.

Also we're not gonna spend a lot of time and money into a vehicle that's not worth much.

Fingers crossed it doesn't catch fire

So apparently, my dad thinks that the problem is that it has a vacuum leak. Remember, he's worked on this truck for over 30 years. Chances on the leak being the problem?

So my dad says the problem is that it has a vacuum leak. Remember he's had this truck for 30 years. Chances on the leak being the prolblem?
PS: This post could be a double post, my apologies.

It will affect the running of the vehicle but doesn't solve the solenoid power problem - which also affects vehicle running.

Last time I saw, there were no lumps on the insulation of the wire between the solenoid, fuses, and the switch. That's how you can tell if the wire is broken or not. So I don't think the truck has a power problem.

All these king crabs keep trying to rape me.

Maybe your ass looks like a sea snail?

Where the hell did u get king crab?

Let's say all the electrical wires weren't broken/shorted and the solenoid won't click. Vacuum leak causing a lean mixture?

Also, when i measure vacuum, what's the range that it should be in for the z24?

faulty solenoid and/or power supply problem

needs to be reasonable vacuum leak for that to happen. have you check EGR valve operation?

Here is a vacuum guide that might help:

nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-720-pickup-truck-vacuum-hose-diagram-repair-guide.html


not sure - may need to get a workshop manual for that information.

Pic not related it's a turbo z24

Nice inverted Nissan logo

OP what do you even need a truck for?

Hauling niggers

...

It's a farm truck. We use it on our property to help move and stack logs and haul equipment.

And another question, if you were to let's say take out all the vacuum hoses/lines permanently, how would that affect the performance of the engine?

Get a conpression tester kit and find out what the compression should be. I rememer having the same thing happen to my motorbike when it was fuel washed from trying to start it too much (which as you might know, reduces the compression).

Also check your oil level. An engines compression level diminishes over time anyway, but if it's something like a piston ring causing an oil leak into the cylinder then it's going to a salvageable engine.