Collector / Buyfag Thread

Fat will give you loader functionality, which is great for avoiding aftermarket scalper prices and bypassing the region lock physical copies suffer from (allowing for playing undubs, fan-translations, and general out-of-region games). Even if you like having actual copies of games, it's a function very much worth considering. Though, that's assuming you're wanting to play stuff on the actual system it's from anyhow, and not just trying to emulate the stuff a given system won't play as-is.

I just got a fuckhuge 100kg CRT from a relative who upgraded to a flatscreen. I'm planning on setting it up with my old consoles when I get the chance. Moving it up the stairs was a fucking pain

what kind is it?

Panasonic Quintrix, according to the front. I can't view the back because it's up against the wall.

RAM for a 486 I picked up at a yardsale, and maybe a CompactFlash card adapter to use it in place of a dying old multi-hundred MB mechanical HDD.
NOT A FUCKING THING. FOR THE HOARD!
SUICI-
Err, I don't know. I don't have enough electrical outlets to do much of fucking anything with what I already have. Work is killing me, money is getting far too tight. I don't know. It's not like I even enjoy it anymore.

Working on upgrading the hard drive in the Xbox I softmodded. Don't have a 1st party controller for it, so CHIMP fucks off. Have to wait for one I ordered to arrive. Dragging my feet on DLing PS2 games to fill up the 320GB HDD I put in my PS2, as I've used HDLoader to rip all of the games I can. Too many won't rip, so eh. Already softmodded my Wii, but I haven't acquired a decent drive for it for USB loading shit bigger than a few emulators. Still dragging my ass on fixing my Goldstar 3DO's dead laser diode. I've had a seemingly suitable replacement part for like four years now. Also not trying to fix my Gamecubes or install my PSIO. Don't have the money to buy anymore flash carts or MicroSD solutions for the DC, 3DO, or Saturn.
Considering repairing my Mac Plus, now that I've found the keyboard. Don't know if I have a mouse or trackball for it, as most everything I have is all ADB shit. I just don't have another Mac with a floppy drive to write OS disks and such for it, and no external floppy. I was never a Macfag, so I'm not even close to wanting to throw down the money for upgrading that fucking thing to the absurd levels that Youtube people do.

Whats a good CRT? I believe I have 4 collecting dust.

Looking more and more into getting a N3DS. The trick will be finding one within the hackable firmware range, but since I'm going to a video game collector con in a couple of weeks (it is as autistic and hipster as it sounds), shouldn't be that bad.
Functional (!) CED player with a good selection of discs
GTX 970
Black Dreamcast.
Any special edition OG Xbox

for consumers, 4:3 panasonic, sony (triniton) or jvc sets. for pro, anything except samsung

If you want a N3DS that hasn't likely been updated, try Gamestop, perhaps? You're not going to save a shitton of money, but they tend not to bother doing shit to the systems they get, beyond a windex wipe. I haven't powered mine up since May.
I'm not going to risk fucking up my Xbox, so I'll be patient and wait for the controller. Only got a 120GB drive, as I didn't want to risk getting something that would require me to dick up the BIOS to proceed.

Image makes me roll my eyes. Like everyone is too fucking stupid to just set their XBox's IP address to be on the same local subnet as their other systems that would be FTPing into it, NO, INSTEAD FUCK YOUR IP ADDRESS UP ON YOUR PRIMARY SYSTEM INSTEAD. Like buying a fucking tow truck to tow your car around to save gas.

are japanese computers the coolest computers?

I may be getting a Net Yaroze, heard they're properly region free for PAL games.
Also the Black no sticks controller makes me hard.

Best soundtracks.

I picked up a complete copy of Full Throttle and Homeworld the other day, which I'm pretty happy about. I've been looking for a good complete copy of the original big-box Fallout release for those sweet manuals but now that the series is popular again they've all dried up and they sell online for like $250 so fuck that.

Dude, go on Amazon. FF8 complete, NIB is like $15.

Nigger, you're dumb.

Do have to say I like the style of that set up. What's in that front compartment though; extra input/output sockets or maybe a disc tray?

Yeah, I don't think there's any PS1 Final Fantasy title that got brought west that should be all that expensive these days. In general, the only sort-of pricy Square games I've seen for the system these days have been Legend of Mana at $30-35, Xenogears at $35-40, and Brave Fencer Musashi for $45 or so, and the first and last at least didn't sell enough for a Greatest Hits print, and the latter Square's opted to not rerelease on the PSN here for whatever reason (though it's on Japan's PSN; same with SaGa Frontier 1 and 2, which are also absent from western PSNs).

I still find it funny though that some years back Final Fantasy VII was averaging maybe $50 where I live, despite not being remotely lacking in physical copies. But I suppose demand was just that much to keep it going at that for a while, the way the similarly common Super Smash Bros. Melee has retained a $55+ price tag here (though that might also have the factor of the "Gamecube tax" bumping its price further than it ought to be, beyond even standard demand).

Square still prints most of their big hits on the PS1, because they still sell, and CD pressing is dirt cheap.

Square still prints most of their big hits on the PS1, because they still sell, and CD pressing is dirt cheap.

God wtf is going on with this site

True, I remember seeing them still selling Greatest Hits prints of Chrono Cross on their website a few years back. I'd assumed at the time though that it might have just been as of yet unsold stock from what copies they had made back in the day (IE: printed more than there was actually demand for at the time), especially with the PSN as a place for them to make older games available and not have to actually produce anything physical.

I'm noticing it myself. Posts taking forever to go through again, etc. I've taken to copying posts and pasting them into a text file, and refreshing the thread if it seems to be taking forever for something to get through. Sometimes it clears and the post goes through on its own soon after, but if not, then you've got the text to try it again.

Might go check Porchmonkey's board and see if anyone's figured out what might be causing it again. I still remember the days when I couldn't even get simply images of a couple hundred KB to go through. Dark times.

True, I remember seeing them still selling Greatest Hits prints of Chrono Cross on their website a few years back. I'd assumed at the time though that it might have just been as of yet unsold stock from what copies they had made back in the day (IE: printed more than there was actually demand for at the time), especially with the PSN as a place for them to make older games available and not have to actually produce anything physical.

I'm noticing it myself. Posts taking forever to go through again, etc. I've taken to copying posts and pasting them into a text file, and refreshing the thread if it seems to be taking forever for something to get through. Sometimes it clears and the post goes through on its own soon after, but if not, then you've got the text to try it again.

Might go check Porchmonkey's board and see if anyone's figured out what might be causing it again. I still remember the days when I couldn't even get simply images of a couple hundred KB to go through. Dark times.

Test to try to bring up missing posts. Catalog showing 30, thread displaying 28 currently.

I love the PET's form factor so fucking much.

>i had this idea a while before but never tried it
Am I autistic?

At least he got trips

Not exactly video but I always wanted a fairlight so I would have the mortal kombat theme orchestral stabs at my disposal. I could just sample them but it's not autistic enough.

There's a local garage sale in my area soon. My CRT tv is terrible - static text and images aren't supposed to jitter like water in a lake, right? How do I pick the right CRT without trying it before buying? I guess high quality TV's are generally always going to be good? Is there a list? Do these good CRT tv's give a hissing sound like all the CRT's I've experienced?

Any user got experience with ZX Spectrum or a Commodore +4? I'm considering picking them up soon as well if possible. Anything I should know for expansions (SD readers and shit) for them? Fell in love with old 8-bit microcomputers. Don't know why.

It's beautiful for what it is. Shame nothing comes close to it nowadays.

Probably. Can't argue it.
That seems like a moot point.
You can have this shit for most systems, who the fuck uses it outside hobbists getting for projects?
I just prefer the look of the base PS1.

Shit, how much is that setting you back user?

You are a friend to electronics. Nothing wrong at all with repairing and maintaining your property.

I'm still waiting on an Xbox controller so I can finish my adventures in upgrading my Xbox. My local game shop went out of business, borderline killing my ability to acquire specific items for my projects, and my collection. I only have one fully off-day from work each week, so going on all-day road trips doesn't do good things for my mental state.

Always sucks. That said, depending on the nature of where you live, is it feasible to drive to the next town over and look for other stores to act as replacements? Some years back, Fucking Gamestop choked out all the other used game stores in town (that weren't multimedia places) until they achieved density of about ten Gamestops in a five mile radius. While that number has begun to dwindle (because there's not enough business to keep that many open) and a few non-Gamestops are beginning to crop back up (with scalper prices now), in the past five years or so I'd taken to seeing what the other towns out here offered to try to make up for the loss of the last good directly-local stores. However, I suppose part of what made that work out is that I'm in a cluster of five towns that are basically gridlocked, so a drive from one town to another takes maybe twenty minutes one-way at best, but varies between town compared to my depth in my own.

If you're getting a Speccy, make sure it's got a cassette in jack. You can hook your phone up to it and play games into it, and it loads much faster than using an actual cassette. Look for a program called OTLA, which can convert Speccy roms into MP3s.
Also look out for joysticks. There are two standards for them, but they both use the same jack. Kempston lets you use Atari and SEGA controllers, and Sinclair doesn't. If your console has a socket built in, it's probably a Sinclair socket. You can make an adapter if you're into electronics although the only good diagram I found isn't in English
Lastly, try for a higher memory model. If you want to play all the games, get the highest you can. The +3 has 128KB RAM and a non-shit keyboard, and I've yet to find a game that it wouldn't play.

Should clarify that I meant that as in "assuming the store was actually decent before then". Far too many shops that have pisspoor selection/prices that still somehow stay in business. Got one of those a town over that asks about double what other stores here want for stuff, stock doesn't seem to move in or out much, and they never seem to have any customers. I've managed occasional decent find there (Aria of Sorrow for $12, Yakuza 4 for $15), but for the most part they're really pretty shit.

Reply to myself. So the text moving around on a crappy consumer CRT - this is just 240i / 480i at work? Interlacing does that I guess, wow that is terrible. I'll have to look into finding CRT's that have the "R G B" input-outputs. Mine only has an RF in, and one yellow video in and white audio in. What is the yellow video in called? Composite? I need some guide I'm confusing myself.

(Names changed to half-assedly protect identity)
AnotherWorld Games' went under after the owner sold it to someone I went to high school with, because in the early 2000s, the classic game market was almost dead. That was where I bought my PSX, most of my games, and where I'd sometimes hang out back in the nineties.
BrickBreaker Entertainment moved to new stores further and further away from me, now residing the Devil's Asscrack, Pennsylvania. They had one store burn down, and the last time I found where they had moved, they were in a hole in the wall, and the desk jockey just stared at me and my friends when we were shopping. Didn't say a damn word. Never going back.
Immortal Amusement was the one closest to where I am, and the most recent one to become my favorite. That's the one that just closed down. I live in a shitty area, but all of the local people I know who play video games shopped there almost exclusively. A shame, but such is the nature of small businesses in the 21st century. I loved that store, and bought a big chunk of my current collection there, including my PS4, one of my Saturns, my Atari 7800, my HDG Genesis, my Sega CD model 2, and a shitload of games and system accessories.
A bunch of other small places showed up and vanished, without notice on either end. I used to find game shops just by driving all over the state and checking out malls and plazas, or looking for "games" on the phone-GPS when in a new area. I found a great place near Sandusky with cool employees, a nice store, and a shitton of inventory. Prices aren't anything to scream about, but it's nowhere near (((merchant))) level. I bought a few Atari 7800 carts and Saturn games, and while I was browsing, helped another customer with questions about HDMI/Composite/S-video options for a PS3 she had purchased from the store recently.

Image related for Gamestop's merchantry. Also a photo of the last major Goodwill/SallyArmy run I made.

I'm not an A/V technician, so here's the simple version:
RF: Typically a coaxial plug, but may also be screw taps on older sets. Radio frequency.
YELLOW: Composite, called such, because the luma and chroma signals are merged together. Better than RF.
WHITE: Monaural audio if singular, left audio if red is available.
RED: Right audio.
S-VIDEO: Luma and chroma signals, separated. Blows the doors off of composite, but can me made into composite with a simple adapter, for use on displays with only composite input.
RED, GREEN, BLUE: In the United States, this is component, or YPbPr. Shitty version of true RGB, but it kicks the shit out of even s-video.

CRTs aren't inherently shitty, it's just that there are so many no-name companies that shit out bad sets. Typically, stuff from big name manufacturers, like Sony, Phillips, Samsung, JVC, Pioneer, and the like would have much better picture and better input options. The images are from a Sony Mavica in macro mode taking photos of my Sanyo TV, with Bubsy for Genesis, composite video. This is just a consumer TV with component inputs, not some Sony PVR with true RGB or something.

Yeah, Gamestop's lazy like that, instead of taking older tags off, they'll just slap new ones on over them, regardless of if it's lower or higher than the previous prices. And then there's the issue of said stickers quickly getting caked on and becoming a complete bitch to remove at times.

Some of the other stores here do that too, in both directions, which leads to some odd cases like why the store I got my copy of Path of Radiance from didn't ask at least $30 like the old Gamestop sticker had on it, asking $10 instead.

no, u

Nice, thanks user.

Ok so component is the way to go, which is RGB cabling, and if not its the YPbPr, got it. I had used YPbPr component cable once for the wii but I sold that ages ago.
So I need to find myself a CRT with component RGB, and somehow acquire RGB cables for all my consoles? In USA too since all this hardware stuff is different. I have a SNES, nintendo, ps2, n64, dreamcast, gamecube, so I better start finding these cables on the internet.

And that is what's needed to avoid interlaced flickering images right? A CRT that can get RGB cabling so I can do 240p instead of 240i.
What about SCART? That's another way to plug stuff in.

Also my current tv is a Sylvania, that must be why its garbage. I'll check the other I have in the back right now.

Welcome to hell, friend

My other RCA only has composite yellow input, BUT has an "S-Video" input. So i'm halfway to RGB.

How hard is it to find a CRT tv with RGB inputs? Atleast now I know what to look for in the upcoming garage sale. I've seen a few videos about the Sony BVM/PVM's and they are crazy expensive.

I found this on craigslist for under $30. Is this a good CRT?
Sony Trinitron KV-27FS13 27"
It has YbPbPr too.

Gamecube component is FUCK THAT level of costly. Better to use a Wii, since its component cables are like $5. Dreamcast is best with VGA, though some games hate it. I haven't tried VGA to HDMI to see how well that works. I've only done component with the PS2, Xbox 360, Wii, so I can't provide much info on how other systems play ball with it. I'm mostly s-video or HDMI, until I get a capture card that doesn't gnaw cock.

Should be good. Sony tended to make pretty good televisions at every level of the scale, though it's not like they didn't subcontract certain products.
I only have a CRT for light gun stuff, as well as Action Max and Captain Power.

the wii component output is a bit blurry, but if you get a later model wii it does look better. I think it had to do with a video encoder they used in later revisions. Of course you want to get a revision that still has GC ports.

Y/Pb/Pr isn't trying to be RGB, it's complicated but RGBS (used for 15khz sets) is a standard definition variation of RGB which is a 4:4:4 representation of all color values, 100% accurate. Y/Pb/Pr is a variable 15khz+ (supports theoretical limits of 100 times the bandwidth required for 1080p iirc) Y/Pb/Pr uses the blue/red values combined with the phase value and green is estimated with the green cable carrying sync/luma information. I studied this stuff for a while, but Y/Pb/Pr has its benefits over RGB. The HD variation of RGB is delivered in RGBHV which has the widest bandwidth in common component standards.

Quality of CRT is largely determined by phosphor/line count and lastly signal. There's some factors done in the circuitry like comb filtering or in the tube itself in the term of its shadow mask. RGB on a consumer TV will as good as s-video on a lower end pro monitor, but RGB on a pro monitor will be the best image on CRT.

I can tell you're not a teacher. When dealing with someone who admits that they know nothing about a subject, you do not dump a mountain of jargon and acronyms on them. You use the most simple explanations and analogies you can, until some level of understanding is achiever. Then you cover the more complex parts, as the understanding framework has already been constructed.

I don't know why I bother prefacing any simplified explanations anymore, since it always turns into this.

I can do simple explanations if I want to, but I thought you knew more of the terminology used in analog video

Trying to type in moon runes seems like it'd be a giant headache. These samurainiggers need to get with the times and use a normal alphabet.

While I do have to wonder what their modern keyboards look like (if anything's changed with them), I would assume they're just as used to the key layout for local characters as we are here. Bigger question I'd wonder about is how they go about inputting kanji.

Update regarding the PS1 model: it's a 3009 model. I checked while I was out today. Is that good?

models before scph-5000 use an inferior GPU which has more banding artifacts in shadows, 5000-7500 are the best models to get. the 3500 actually has FMV skipping issues, I'd suggest passing on it, you can find a 5000-7500 pretty easily on ebay I imagine.

also my copies of Ys Origin for the PS4 and Vita arrived yesterday. My PS4 collection is getting very big these days.

I hope you got a lot of money, fam. My older bro blew several hundred shekels going down that road, but on the upshot; he can now plug it directly into an HDMI port on his plasma TV, but I'm sure you can get a version that uses SCART. He's a dumbass. Everything else should be pretty cheap, except the Gamecube cable brought up earlier. All Trintrons are awesome too, but if you're paying money for CRTs; try to get an old pro monitor like said. I run into them once in a while in a thrift shop, but old electronics trading events have them in spade at reasonable prices, probably because they don't want to move them again.

That's probably where the Christmas bonus is going this year.

I'll have to post a picture of my library, only missing a few games like p5 and nioh. Waiting for price drops/content complete releases for those.

Are the only pro tv's PVM's from Sony? Dunno what to look for, and how to find 'thrift shops'.

As of now I'm still waiting for there be enough of interest on the system myself, that aren't just regional exclusives to it that were mixed PS3/PS4 in Japan.

Might want to consult the following for information on particular models.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_models

No, look for these brands: Ikegami, JVC, Panasonic, Barco, Hentarex, NEC, Mitsubishi. The last three made presentation monitors which are an entirely different tier of CRT, but the rest are usually more affordable, offer a different feel to Sony monitors, and some like Ikegami's are still in use today and are used for color grading. The Ikegami stuff actually goes for a bit of a premium due to how tightly engineered their sets were - very different advantages over Sony and they produced the last pure analog CRT sets which are desirable for their own reason.

I'm noticing a larger and larger library building up every time I check for an upcoming or released game. It's like every time I check I find 3 or 4 more I want to get. Limited Run has been excellent too with their physical copies. I haven't counted but I believe I have a library of about 20 games now.

For me there's no reason to get into a system right away, where all that's there at the start is launch titles, various services you may or may not want (netflix, etc), and a "promise" of more worthwhile games in the future. It's just a bit odd that the PS4 will be turning four in a few months and I still haven't found enough to warrant picking one up.

I just spent over $200.00 on Laserdiscs & Neo Geo Pocket Color Games. Ask me anything.

How much is a BBC Micro worth nowadays anons? I have the chance to pick one up locally, so thought to ask. Any preferred model or shit?

I find one Amiga and then they all start turning up. Russian roulette each time I buy a stack of floppies for it.

How good are laserdics to get nowadays? All I hear about them is how shit is dying constantly.

Not cheap. If you want a machine that has one of the "good" comb filters (LDs only have composite on them), you're asking for $350 for an untested machine, & $500 for something that's been serviced. I'm going from memory, but my serviceman said something like "There's damn near 130 capacitors in this thing". Then there's the REALLY expensive machines that have the Red Lasers inside (you know, like a Ps2 or normal dvd player) & those go for like $1000+ because they're only used by archives for the best possible picture.

If you don't care about what player you're going to buy though, you can get one for cheap. Most discs are cheap too, but that's mostly because nobody feels like testing them. It's a really weird thing to be into, comparable to RGB gaming in prices.

Only LD player I know is the Pioneer ones for the game shit on top. I may look into it for a brief interest. Might work well in tandem with my Betamax player.

The players are getting harder to buy parts for, but things like belts and gears have industry equivalents; so basic upkeep is still very easy. You're fucked though if a laser dies or a capacitor blows, might as well start shopping for a new player. As for easy to get, I run into players a few times at thrift shops, (none of the boss ones like in >>13484252's post, and I thought $500 for a LaserActive was ridiculous), and the discs themselves constantly get mixed in with LPs. I manage to get lots at garage sales too.

fuck yes

are those ones on the bottom with the white tops the 1970s "discovision" LDs? I've heard those are all rotten to death by now due to being made poorly. Another reason those $1000+ machines are worth so much is they read "through" laser rot, so that's another thing to consider. what kind of player do you use?

Even the discs that look like a cloud is forming inside them? Because I have a handful of those.
Anyway, the white discs are CEDs, the movies on vinyl technology. It works as well as you'd think, not very. Almost all my discs skip, the only one that doesn't is Star Wars, it only jumps over the beginning (confirming the needle is in good shape). It's hilarious though to watch something like Barberella, my disc jumps at a spot where she's jumping over a rock, so you get to watch her all glitched out and jumping over the rock constantly until you fast forward past it. Beastmaster was in too terrible of shape to enjoy, so it will go up on the wall at some point.

That's generally a sign of "disc rot". If those discs show black horizontal lines when you play them then they were pressed badly at the factory & air got in between the layers. But yeah, that's what I've heard. I'm not shelling out $1000+ any time soon to find out though. I've heard CEDs skip less the more you play them.

Anything beyond the B model technically has higher specs but won't run every game out there. The B should be good enough for anything you need. You can upgrade an A to a B with some soldering.
How much is the offer for, and what condition is it in?

If you're alright with using roms, there's a USB floppy emulator for the Amiga. You open it up, replace the floppy drive with it, and load it with a USB stick full of floppy images.

Well also, a little while ago, I had to pull apart the entertainment center, and I found the rubber ring that goes around the drive bearing on the underside slid off sometime ago, slowing the drive down. I put it back on but have yet to play a disc, maybe that was the problem.

I might be able to get for 50-60. Pretty great condition for what it is, no damage or shit. Didn't ask what model it was, so when back in the area, will see.

I don't mind using ROMs, just have to work with what have on hand right now. Fucking workbench floppy is dead, the only floppy I have that works is Captain Planet.

check it out

I bought an iMac g3 running OS 9 to play a bunch of Abandonware like Glider Pro on.

I'm posting on it right now. Holla Forums barely fucking renders, but I wasn't expecting anything else.

On the topic of also microcomputers, what's a good monitor to get for them? A old Commodore monitor? I could just plug into TV but prefer something standalone.

Indigo's are nice.

CRTanon, here. This is a deep rabbit hole. Consumer grade CRTs are usually pretty crap. S-Video is usually the best you can find in the US, though Component occasionally shows up. Digital Trinitrons have some great picture for movies, but they do have to convert analog to digital, scale it, then convert it back to analog for the electron gun. This introduces between 2 and 4 frames of lag by my tests, and eliminates all scanlines. If you want good retro vidya CRTs, and want to avoid heavy flickering, go for the smallest CRT you can find with S-Video or Component. Generally the only video signals that will flicker are 480i, as 240p is just 480i with a blank field.

sony kv 1311 will handle rgb through a sync on green d-sub and even has compoopie if you need it. Very stylish monitor and will do a good job supporting those 80s computers.

wow its not even a d-sub, nevermind i made a mistake but you can easily fashion your own rgb connectors for pretty much anything that'll spit rgb out for this thing, you can even use an old IDE cable as a base

HD Trinitrons don't work for light guns.

Also: Best signals you can get for each console
Composite
S-Video/RGBs
Big models have RGBs as standard.
Juniors have Composite
Juniors can have RGB amplifier installed to restore RGBs function.
S-Video
RGBs, or HDMI, all models with varying difficulty.
S-Video, Component with lolno priced cables.
Various mods out there to add either a Wii Component jack or HDMI.
Component. Nothing higher needed.

RGBs out of the box for original units, Master System 2s are Composite only.
RGBs for Models 1, 2, Nomad and 32x.
Model 1 can have S-Video added for the cost of a couple resistors, a capacitor and a transistor.
RGBs and S-Video out of the box
Same as Saturn, plus VGA

RGBs standard on all units
RGBs and Component standard.
DVD VIDEO IS ENCODED IN YPbPr. YOU WILL NEED TO SWITCH TO YPbPr MODE ON YOUR DISPLAY TO VIEW THEM
YPbPr supported, lowest resolution is 480i, including PSOne classics. Enjoy your flicker.

All units support only Composite out of the box
RGBs is easily added to most Turbo/PCE units. S-Video requires additional internal hardware.

a lot of the s-video mods are very easy to do and if it's the best you've got, it's a convenient option to go for. It's also very easy, just follow guides and measure, cut, and be smart about your wire placement.

Genesis is a cakewalk. PCE is a bit of a bastard.

Got a near new Logitech wheel for $20, picked up a 360 with a wireless controller for $25 (havent looked at the firmware yet so might be able to mod it) and a Wii with a bunch of accessories for $25 as well. I'm an ausfag so those are ok prices for here.

cringe

something pretty cool came in at work today.

What kind of store do you work at?

it's an old video game/old toy/comics shop. mostly video games.

How much you going to wind up selling it for?

It would be much cooler to have it as something people can actually play and enjoy in the store than something sitting in some nintenautists collectors room. We'll probably restore it and leave it set up in one of the two stores we run. We have a donkey kong cabinet already and we donate the money we get from that to charity so I can see this being the same - I'm not the owner so I don't know what exactly the plan is.

What games are on it?

I don't remember them all, but I played SMB3 and mike tyson's punch out on it yesterday.

You guys are a best. I'd feel the same way if I got a cabinet at my game shop.

Reminder to check your flashcart before you buy and use them. A lot of them aren't properly grounded and can reduce the lifespan of your consoles.

Used the older model Everdrive for my Mega Drive for the longest time and it's done fuck all. Is there any proof that it does so or is this the new meme.

Not my problem you wish to pay money for subpar shit.

Good job.

db-electronics.ca/2017/07/05/the-dangers-of-3-3v-flash-in-retro-consoles/

power off when not in use, and be smart about it. It is a legitimate concern and these systems weren't meant to handle these things.

You're a retard.

Your word vs an electrical engineer

Thanks for the list! I have S video for gamecube and looks way better than composite. This tv that uses s video doesn't have bad interpolation flicker like my other yellow composite tv. But S video still has a minimal flicker on text when looking close. So is RGB the only input that can get 240p/480p (gamecube) to not interlace, to not flicker?

An "electrical engineer" versus an actual Electrical engineer then. Got it. He's a retard, as every single everdrive plainly has a voltage regulator on the fucking thing.

Gamecube only outputs 480i for 99% of games. There is homebrew software to force the GBPlayer to output in 240p, but Gamecube games were mostly designed with 480i/480p in mind. The Gamecube can only output 480p via the digital out port using $300+ Component cables. You can modify the Gamecube to use a Wii Component cable, or an HDMI port. There is a plug-and-play version of the mod in the works presently, with working units already being distributed for wider scale testing.

this explains why krikzz's response to the voltage disparity was to address the concerns with revisions to the latest everdrive for each system affected.

Well that sucks. I still get slightly motion sick on these crt's, atleast on 3D era's like ps2/gamecube graphics.

regarding backwards compatibility with consoles, is this post correct?

Well they got it wrong with the GBA. It's "101", not "1001" (which doesn't exist for the system) with the backlit screen (the 001 being frontlit).

Faggot.

Dead wrong.

Try adjusting your seating distance. Remember most 3d games expect you to be sitting a fair distance away. And if you do decide to go the RGB path, do NOT buy into the SCART meme. With just a bit of patience you can build your own cables without dropping $30+ per cable.

PS2 uses the same pins for RGB and Component, and PS1 has the same pinout. Most chink cables have all the pins present, just look at the pictures on ebay carefully, to be sure.
70mm length is needed for the four video jacks to sit in a line, with about 25mm for the vertical depth, more if you plan to use a PCB. Width is up to you
Don't need a ton of this, less is more in this case, as the shorter this length is, the less cross talk, and the less you have to spend. The goal is to split up the signals as close to the console to put as much insulation and physical distance as is reasonable between them. The stuff I use isn't the cheapest either.

If using a CRT, you might consider using the chink cable from the SCART lead if it makes your life easier. CRTs, including studio monitors, aren't nearly as sensitive to analog noise as an LCD or a scaler is.
>check members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm for what interfacing capacitors and resistors you need
Chink SCART cables tend to have these with plenty of leg on them for salvaging, check to make sure, and if they don't match these, buy the ones you need.
You might use BNC, if you're stupid and want to spend too much. I use RCA jacks since the jack itself is electrically identical to a BNC connector, and if I need to it can be cheaply adapted to BNC, but the reverse costs more. You'll need four for video and two for audio. I also integrate an S-Video jack in my SNES/N64/GC boxes because that console doesn't support RGB.
If you don't know how to solder, learn. It's dead simple. You're going to need basic soldering tools for this and just about any project ever. Soldering Iron, Solder sucker, solder wick, solder, and rosin (Liquid is available, but I hate that shit and use paste instead)

You'll also need a bottle of rubbing alcohol and a hard bristle toothbrush for cleaning up any flux after finishing up, because it's sticky as hell and can corrode shit if left alone.

Got all thsi shit? Sweet. Continue to part two.

PS2 looks fucking atrocious on PS3

Part 2
Oh shit, did I mention you should also have a Drill and a Dremel? Because you should. Don't need anything massively stronk here, you're only cutting plastic. And you should have a stepper bit. You can get these things at Harbor Freight for dirt cheap, we're only cutting plastic with them.
There's two ways to go about this, depending on what you're doing and how many wires you need inside the cable. To wire up RGBs, S-Video, Composite and stereo audio you need nine, without S-video and Composite video it's seven. If the Chink cable has enough wires in it at the SCART end then you can use the cable if you like. If not, you're going to have to use your own cable.

First carefully split open the console end of the cable by finding the seam where the two halves meet and splitting there using an Xacto. The goal here is to do it with minimal breakage so we can save the shell. Once open you're going to desolder the wires from their terminals by heating them and just pulling the wire away. Now prep your replacement cable by stripping the insulation and tinning each wire. Solder the wires into the console harness, making sure to document what wires are connected where. Close it up and wrap with back vinyl tape for now (You can glue it later, but you want it openable in case you need to fix a fuckup)
First, wrap the sides in painter's tape and mark where you're going to put your jacks, ensuring to leave a bit of space between them to fit the mounting hardware (Usually a nut that you torque on to generate friction against the rear plate of the jack) Measure twice, cut once, jackass. Now drill them out with the stepper bit, stopping when you think you're one step below the right size. Check for fit, and either stop, or go to the nest step on your bit. Repeat for next five jacks. Once all your holes are reamed out, peel off the painter's tape and that shit should be clean as fuck, with all the drill shavings leaving with the tape. If not, clean it up a bit with the Xacto if you care, either way the next step is fitting those jacks, getting them all mounted snug as fuck and ready for soldering.

Oh, and drill a hole for the cable to go into as well. Once the cable is through, figure out how much you need plus a small bit of slack, then tie a knot in the bundle, get it good and tight, then hotglue that knot to the inside of the box where it enters the box. Behold ghetto strain relief. Now simply solder the wires and interfacing devices to the corresponding jacks, close it up and bam, fucking done. As a bonus, if you have a passive AV switch that does both composite and component, you can use it as a switch, just hook RGB up to the Component plugs, Sync to the Composite Video plug and audio to audio.

Total cost is like $10-15 depending on the console and how much you spend on jacks. Fuck the SCART faggots.