Consumer Advice

Threads are fucking garbage. Fine, have a cyclical thread but don't pin the shit.

My mom wants a laptop for tech-illiterate normalfags.
It should be able to stream videos properly and run shitty fagbook games and do the usual shit. Medium sized screen with a fitting resolution she doesn't get strained eyes from. It should have some free space on it for 1000s of mediocre photos she doesn't want to delete but it doesn't need to have TBs of free space.
Give me the cheapest, most normalfag proof thing that does that without hiccups.
I didn't use a laptop for a long time now and have no fucking idea what is good bang for buck at this point in time on the laptop market so any advice would be appreciated. If you know of certain models that look good but are actually shit, that would be helpful too.

Most of laptops are like that now since every one of them is trying to be a shitty version of already shitty macbooks. It's hard to find durable ones for a low price unless you buy older refurbished "business" models. For your mom's needs that would probably be fine, unless she needs more modern ports but I'm guessing she's not a hipster type either.

Yeah, the amount of garbage macbook copies and chromebooks is staggering. It's a sea of shit. It has to be an available new model sadly. My mom wants to buy it with overtime hours over her workplace. (they have some kind of maximum Jew thing that saves them taxes this way)

Are these good speakers? I have a good Impression of Logitech, everything that I've owned from them has worked great and has survived relentless abuse and the only negative things I've heard have been of their Wireless mice and head-sets.

I'm looking to use them for my PC, ps4, Switch,etc. For the consoles how would i go about connecting them? It'll be simple for the older stuff just plug in the RCA cables but I'm worried about the HDMI stuff.

If these speakers aren't so great could i get some recommendations for things in a similar price range. Thanks mates.

amazon.com/dp/B003VAK1FA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=37B25CUCBRK89&coliid=I3TXDH2GJZGTH6&psc=1

I seriously hope you guys don't do this. Hint: sound quality is not additive. A $10 speaker will not get better if you buy more of it. 2.0 is what you're looking for.

That's obviously not the point of 5.1. I used it for a while years ago and the surround effect is quite kewl. I grew out of all the dumb shit that makes use of it though, now I just use a pair of good headphones.

Anyone have experience with uninterruptible power supplies? I need to protect my desktop from brownouts, apparently, and I'm trying to decide between APC or CyberPower.

Is the X220 tablet good for artists? It's got a Wacom digitizer pen, and the screen is already an IPS panel.

trying to find a link to activate office 2016.

I tried pirate bay and they were the entire office program. I just need a key gen or some activator.

libreoffice.org/
tug.org/texlive/

Is the Huawei P10 a good phone?
Anything else below 650 euros?

I'm looking for a new (or old) laptop.
It should be as libre as possible while still being reasonably fast (~5yo) and have a good screen.
So, looking at coreboot supported devices, there seem to be these options: X220/X230, Macbook Air 4,2 and Chromebook Pixel.
The chinkpads are no-brainers, but they only have shitty 16:9 768p screens, the Mac is a little better at 1440x900, while the Pixel has 2560×1700.

Does anyone have experience with these devices running Coreboot with cleaned me and GNU+Linux?
Non-Thinkpads seem not to be very popular for my purposes, but I'd like to try something new

X201s (1st gen i7 from 2010) has 12.1 inch 16:10 screen with 1440x900 resolution, this was the last 16:10 model and with good resolution afaik.
Newer X models are not really that much faster but this one does have a really shitty integrated graphics. You can flash it with coreboot but I don't know if everything works as good as before. I remember seeing some drawbacks mentioned in the past, might be improved by now.

When it comes to newer laptops the shitty 16:9 is sadly the norm because manufacturers assume we want to watch movies instead of work with text. I'm currently searching for new 16:10 portable laptops and there seems to be absolutely nothing.
Of course you can get a FHD display but then you have to deal with everything being small. Scaling things up to a comfortable level defeats the purpose because it gives you same shitty vertical space as with 1366x768.

Forgot to mention: wireless card needs a non-free iwlwifi firmware. You can replace the card with a libre one.

So I wanted a recommendation Holla Forums.

I have a MBP Retina from Late 2012 (first gen Retina) and I have to say I was pretty happy with my purchase. I got it steeply discounted through jewish methods so it wasn't that bad of a buy. However, it is aging a bit and I wanted to look at a new laptop in case mine gives out at any point in the near future.

Things I like:

+aluminum body is nice
+lightweight is a plus
+OS X has a lot of interesting features (yeah yeah botnet etc)
+trackpad is pretty good
+ultra high res screen is great, still not a single dead pixel

Are there any good options out there? The MBP I have is the last Jobs MBP which is probably why it hasn't completely fallen to pieces yet, but I have been seeing the new MBP and it has no fucking esc button among other questionable design choices (no HDMI WTF).

I remember in the past the closest thing to the MBP in terms of the above qualifications were the ultrabooks, but I'm not too versed nowadays, wanted to see what you could think of before doing any proper research.

G-guise?

Is there somewhere I can legitimately buy unlocked phones online?

What video editing software would you recommend? Free if possible.

It just needs to be able to take video, chop it up, overlay text, and have images over the top if need be.

What's your operating system?

I want a laptop that's sturdy, not super heavy but doesn't have to be tiny either and can run TF2 perfectly. Pretty much all I need.

If you want GNU/Linux video editing you're SOL. Just pirate Vegas. Blender works for what you're saying but it's shit and is also the most assbackwards shit on the planet.

No the tablet is terrible for art. Doesn't have enough accuracy. Also no pressure sensitivity.

Does anyone have newer T4xx and X2xx thinkpads? How much bigger and heavier does the T model feel in your daily usage?

GPU Coolers:
Are they worth it?
I see a lot of talk about them reducing GPU temperatures from 80 degrees to 60 degrees, which is perfect because my GPU likes to hover around 80 degrees when I'm gaming.

Size?
I heard they're pretty big, too. I'm forced to use a Wifi adapter in the PCI slot beneath my GPU, so I'm wondering if there's a model that will even work for me.

Specifics:
Is there a GPU cooler that would pair well with a Powercolor RX480?
I got the GPU because it was as expensive as a mid-range RX470, but the heat does worry me. GPU coolers are a bit of a rarity so I don't know if it's even appropriate for me to be getting one. A lot of the reviews I see come from people with much, much older cards.

I was able to get a good deal on a reference gtx 470 back in the day. It was hot and loud so I bought an aftermarket cooler for it. It was worth it because fermi's were hot as shit. Now I'd say it's better to just buy a GPU that comes with a better cooler. I've used a gigabyte 3x windforce gtx 670 and 1070 and they were great. If you already have a GPU that is running hot and loud then yes aftermarket coolers can be worth it is the noise and heat bother you. If you are a buying a new gpu, just get one with a good cooler.

80c isn't a problem, if it starts going above that it's a problem. The 4xx series takes to undervolting really well, give that a try before you spend any money.

Try reapplying thermal paste first. With such a bulky cooler there is chance that the weight of the cooler forces a gap between the chip and heatsink. Happened to me recently when I took out my GPU to clean it of dust.

Hey guys, my old headphones are starting to get real annoying to constantly resolder the wires on and I'm thinking of just replacing them. I'm currently using Superlux HD681 Evos. Has there been any advancements in the field of extremly good quality but cheap headphones past that or should I just get the same again?

Phillips SHP9500s are really good.

nah, they're still great, but you could try out other Superlux models

Is ifixit a good place to buy Macbook replacement/upgrade parts from?
I'm looking to replace my optical drive with a second HDD/SSD and to replace the battery.

This would be a good moment to buy a computer without aids.

Probably the least important thing in the whole universe to care about but here it is:
I'm in the market for a new mousepad because the Artscow mousepad I got for free years ago is starting to fray and just feels too small for me now.

What's the best mousepad on the market right now for under $20?
Pretty much the most popular mousepad on the market. I can't imagine it doesn't live up to its reputation.
At the same time, it doesn't have those embroidered edges, and I feel like that would end up cutting its life span short (not by any meaningful amount, but it does bother me a teensy tiny bit.)

Are there any other mousepads worth considering? Anyone have any opinions on the Glorious PC Gaming Race Mousepad? I heard good things.
There's also the Steelseries Qck Limited which is the 'premium' Qck with the stitched edges and some shit about fibers being closer together. Pricey, though.

Which should I get?:
amazon.com/Sapphire-Radeon-backplate-Graphics-11260-13-20G/dp/B01NAEFAHC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4/145-8508684-7259665?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491746166&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=Sapphire Radeon RX 480 4GB NITRO D5 OC
amazon.com/Dual-Fan-Radeon-Gaming-Graphics-DUAL-RX480-O4G/dp/B01KWGSEJU/ref=sr_1_2/146-0085565-5842749?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491750138&sr=1-2&keywords=ASUS Dual-fan Radeon RX 480 4GB AMD

Win 7. Toaster-tier laptop.

Got a link for a brother?

Don't listen to those neckbeards. Openshot video editor is easy to use for any simple video editing task and is free.

I don't know shit about mousepads but I've been using a Steelseries QCK for two years without any fraying at all.

I was looking for a laptop recently and it had to be faster than anything the last lineup of non-chicklet thinkpads had to offer. These days lenovos price premium doesn't seem justified anymore, and the specs even on the P70 or T560 are shit.
Then i looked for other laptops and dove deep into the numerous autistic laptop criteria.
Laptops are still immature, unlike smartphones for example these days, you have to compromise no matter how much you pay.
I compromised looks, battery life, screen bleeding and the keyboard for high performance, good thermals, great storage options and good build quality. I can recommend the Clevo rebranders, like Sager in the US. Average screens and keyboards but good build quality, good thermals, storage space, usually low prices for the specs and runs Linux well.

How's the keyboard layout and key travel? What about the screen ratio (16:10 or 16:9)?
These are basically the main reasons why I'm still holding onto my old Thinkpad.

Do you have a better suggestion then?

>TF2
I think all you need is at least an intel 3000HD iGPU to reach playable frame rate at low setting. That game isn't really power hungry.

lenovoshits are no longer good.
the only good line up are non-chicklet old gen thinkpad carbons that no longer exist or probably sporting unusable itanium processors. Most of the new thinkpads that have chicklet keyboards are terrible and uses the same schematics as the cheapo Ideapad and let me tell you.. that accutype keyboard sucks bigtime. Really hate those keyboards tbh.

If you want quality then go for 'business' line-ups of the following:
Panasonic
Toshiba
Fujitsu
Japs make the good stuff not chinks.

There's also no reason to trust lenovo at it's current state

pic related is 3:2

My high DPI mice is almost quarter of the price of that crapseries qck mousepad.

Seems more like laptops are becoming shittier by appealing to normies. I don't have much hope that they'll get better usability-wise, but I'm sure all of them will soon look as good as macbooks.

...

On small laptops (12-13 inch) that's actually not as much a problem for most use cases because a FHD screen needs to be scaled down to a usable effective PPI. At that point your effective resolution is pretty close to the shitty 768p.
The actual solution is to ditch the 16:9 screen ratio for more vertical space. But that won't happen, just like usable keyboard layouts won't return. If you're replacing an older laptop you're pretty much forced to compromise usability for general performance. And for most use cases the performance increase is nothing special, with the exception of integrated graphics.

Tell me about it. Why the fuck does an 11 incher need a fullhd screen, other than to impress retards? I've even seen a 13 incher with a 4K resolution. What is this, PPI for ants?

Key travel is above average, but below my T420, layout is good but not perfect. It's 15" so it has a numpad, but the arrow keys are sort of crammed in between. They're full size but they eat into the right ctrl key. The keyboard is okay, the only bad thing about it is the ricershit tier backlighting in 16 gorillion colours with three lighting zones. Under Linux you cant control it at all, and under windows you need a cancerous tool for it.

I bought it because of the performance, almost all keyboards are shit compared to the old thinkpads. All the big laptops at the time, XPS 13, MBP Touchbar, T460, horrible ricer MSI gaymen laptops, Razer blade, have the same shitty chicklet keyboards, its the first thing you have to give up when going for non-thinkpads. Screen is 1080p 16:9.

What is the best AMD motherboard one can get with a traditional BIOS instead of UEFI? Not sure I'll ever be moving beyond the last generation of processors without PSP.

What are the pressure levels for the ThinkPad X220 Tablet? I heard from one that it's 1024, but it might be 256 from some other drawfag.

Nvidia GTX 1060 or AMD rx 480?

Have you ever read bible? There are some forbidden sins.

I'll ask again :

Nvidia GTX 1060 or AMD rx 480?

Depends. Is it a MacbookAir 4,2?
Either way, might as well buy from ifixit, their teardowns are quite useful.

Not even close.

The 1060, no greenscreen crashes and better thermals.

Would you rather get a second 1070 or a 1080 Ti to run MEA in 4K?

I already own one and a second 1070 FTW would be around 300 - 350 €, a 1080Ti more than 500.

I heard the Ti only gets 40 FPS while I get 20 currently on high settings. 50 would be better - And no I'll not turn down HBAO+ when I have 800 € of graphics cards in my PC.

Is anyone actually running such a setup @full 2160p?

I'd rather cut my own fucking throat than play ME:A, so I'm not familiar with your problem.

Then you should not answer, I know the optimization is shit and would just wait if it wasn't Mass Effect.

I also would like to try newer titles like Wildlands but I know they won't run good.

Mabye your CPU is shit (e.g AMD 8320) or your drivers need some serious updating, also check you background processes. You do know that 100% scaling doesn't happen right? Just bump down settings in addition to getting another GPU (I would probably start with shadows and AA) the reduction will be hard to impossible to see at 4K. Hopefully your case and PSU can handle the greatly increased power draw.

* >>>/suicide/

what's a good drip coffee machine for around $50?

I was thinking about the "Hamilton Beach 46205"

bumping this request

What's the best router with ADSL support value wise? It needs to have wi-fi and at least 2 LAN ports.
Perhaps something similar to pic related should do it, but with ADSL: tp-link.com/us/products/details/TL-WR841N.html#specifications

D-Link DSL-2730U + OpenWRT

Best thinkpad for freedom? I want to put coreboot on it and run a few virtual machines. Please give me advice.

Coreboot has the same freedom as the Linux Kernel. Its open source but relies on closed source blobs. Go with libreboot

Can't find that model in Portugal.

Hmm, how about this one?
tp-link.pt/products/details/cat-15_TD-W8961NB.html#specifications
It seems to have the same specs as the one I pointed out, but has ADSL instead of a WAN port and has detachable antennas.

So motherboards are the one PC part I had zero experience buying. Anyone know any good resources for getting just the right motherboard? I need something with AMD FX support and without UEFI.

I know that. I was asking for what Thinkpad I should go with that meets my needs.

My CPU must be pure shit, a 5820K @4.3 GHz.

I know that but I have enough lanes. I will get a proper EVGA PSU (A Ti would also need one).

This question was meant seriously.

Recently I was looking for something like this and the best one I found was this board:
Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3

It comes with USB, support for 125W FX cpus, integrated graphics, HDMI port and some other features but it lacks SATA 3, so if you want to use an SSD it would be a bad choice.
Then there is a similar Asrock board for 60$ that comes with SATA3 but without USB3 and HDMI port

I think I've identified the motherboard I want to use. I want to use either
MSI Z270 X or MPower Gaming Titanium OR the Gigabyte Aorus G-Z270 Gaming 9 (rev. 1.0), an E-ATX board
Selection will be based upon connectivity options ... which board offers the greatest flexibility of most-recent technology front and rear ports. Suggestions?
Also, I'm planning on the Asus Xonar Essence Stx sound card, any advice on that

Should I get a 1060 6gb or an upcoming 570 8gb?

Gross. Lack of SATA III is also pretty lame. Why are the pickings so shitty? How did you look this stuff up?

I also use a VGA monitor so HDMI is no use to me.

i need a durable usb drive for watching movies

i got myself a 8gb sandisk that after a few months gave the "cannot delete or paste anything, permission required" error. then i got a pny 128gb that gave me the same error in less than 2 months.

so i need a usb drive that can handle being plug in my bluray and play movies everyday

ALSO, my laptop screen died and i want to get a new one, but the back of the screen have 2 different screen numbers. one stamped right at the back, and one little sticker on a flappy thingy at the bottom.
which one is the true screen?

I want to buy a network card for my new PC, but I keep hearing a lot of these PCI cards have shit reception or are simply shit, and the USB ones are outright awful. How do I pick a good one?

flash drives die quick if they're being used every day and writing/reading info daily.

I'd get a 2.5 HDD instead.

you mean something like this? amazon.com/Generic-SATA-Internal-Hard-Drive/dp/B00AAKF8JS/ref=sr_1_54?ie=UTF8&qid=1492291928&sr=8-54&keywords=2.5+hdd&th=1

these things can get pretty pricey. question tho: why a 2.5 hdd and not a normal external hd?

So just a quickie, would these specs in a refurbished be a bad or good deal for $77?

Intel Core i3-2100
4GB RAM
250GB HDD

How much better are m.2 NVMe SDDs over traditional ones for the OS drive? I currently have a Samsung 840 SATA SDD but I'm thinking about buying a PCIe 3.0x4 -> M.2 adapter card and pairing it with a Samsung 960 Evo M.2 500GB SDD.

Is the speed increase worth it? I've already upgraded the bios on my motherboard and have proper support so that isn't an issue. My boot times are already pretty fast but I'm slowly maxing out this Haswell machine and I'm thinking of going for this next.

Other plans include:

This is currently my video editing/gaming PC. I mainly want the extra video card for more monitors/video encoding and not gaming. I'm not looking to drop too much more money in it. Plan on waiting to see where the new AMD CPUs are in a year or two and building another PC based around those.

Cut a hole in your case behind the cpu socket and put a fan there.

Those two choices aren't designed to compete, so the faster one wins. 1060 6GB.
AMD pits RX580 against 1060 6GB and they are very close.

It comes with DVI, HDMI and VGA ports
yes the onboard graphics is shit but it always is. If necessary you can buy a 40$ amd graphics card to display your desktop
I thought you wanted something for internet browsing only and this is one of the few boards that come without UEFI (it has a pheonix bios). Maybe the Asrock card would be better for you if you want SATA 3 but it comes without USB3.

The problem is that only shit boards come without UEFI. You cannot find any good board without UEFI anymore. Good luck

I need a good monitor for photo editing. I found this ASUS VP279Q-P for a decent price but I can't find any reviews on it. I know Dell makes good monitors but I bought a U2414h and it must have been defective becase the colors were crap.
I've done some research on monitors but still won't fully be able to trust myself to make the right choice, and I question monitor buying guides. I'm such an autist when it comes to making purchases.

So I have a Lumix DMC-LS5 (sounds more like a Delorean with a Chevy engine swap than a camera but I digress) that I've owned since new. It photographs at 14.5 megapixels, and most importantly, takes AAs rather than Li-ion.

However, I've decided it's time for me to move on. It's more than served it's purpose; in the last year or so I've noticed one half of my photos are noticeably less focused than the other, in addition to random colored pixels all over the image.

So I did what any normalfag would do and browse ebay. Surely there had to be a camera that was as similar to mine as possible but with better specs, right?

I couldn't have been further from the truth.

Fuck this shit, I'm done with compact cameras. I have absolutely no intentions of becoming a professional photographer, but desperate needs have pushed me to desperate measures. What is the best digital available on the market that is:

>Can be set up and wound down in very quick times (we're talking from dangling around neck switched off to capturing a fully stabilized image in

Hoi! Holla Forums what's a good walky-talky?
about half a mile range should be sufficient.

Nah, I play games, encode video and audio, etc. I want a motherboard that can afford the best technology I can use before everything got unbelievably pozzed by the NSA and CIA. I would really appreciate SATA III and USB 3.0 in any event; I use an SSD that's never seen its full potential.

... Maybe I don't really need a BIOS board though? Apparently you can run most UEFI boards in BIOS legacy most? Will that actually protect you from UEFI's security vulnerabilities?

How do you normally go about researching motherboards anyway?

*BIOS legacy mode

Looking for a PSU to run two GPUs and they are powerhungry little bastards. Probably means 1000W.

Can anyone recommend a good 1000W PSU that isn't overpriced? I'm not looking for eXtr33me Gaymer features like color changine LEDs, just something that will do the job, won't have absurd shit like coil whine and won't crap out after a year.

Thinking about buying a new sony xperia z1 compact for 130€,
is this a bad idea in 2017?
will i have any problems soon software sided or with apps?
Would then a custom rom be an idea?
Its from spring 2014 is that old at all in smartphone years?
Its small, has good performance, more i dont need.
What do you think?

I'd check custom rom support first, because stock support is dreadful.
sony only offers about 1 year of software support(or less).speaking from experience there.

help pls

Can't you get a portable HDD? Would solve all ur flash drive issues. Some are very compact

...

Bought a refurbished Corsair RM1000x, saved about 80 bucks which I will drop on a new case since mine is an old piece of shit. 1 year warranty but the CC will double that to two years. Did I dun gud?

also the autists on plebbit said that since it was manufacturer refurbed it was likely tested more extensively than new units.

Can you still get an R9 fury? They were dirt cheap on newegg a few weeks ago. Sapphire versions with great HSF and good OC potential.

What is the last non-pozzed AMD CPU? It's the FX series right?

FX 9590 but 220w tdp at load

Is that bad? What's the best bang-for-buck FX CPU?

not considering its low price $150, go for it if you have good case cooling.

Can anyone comment on this mouse?

mwave.com.au/product/logitech-g402-hyperion-fury-gaming-mouse-ab56297#detailTabs=tabAccessories

I need a cheapish mouse with at least 6 buttons that's available in Australia.

best bang for buck cpu on the market right now is the FX-6300 according to various benchmarking portals online. You can get it for around 100$ and it is a decent cpu for office/home use and it will even be suited for gaming but don't expect it to work with full settings.

However, if you need the most powerful FX and if you have a good cooler to keep the temperatures of this oven down, then you should go with the FX-8350. 8370 is an overclocked 8350 and the 9000series are extremely overclocked FX cpus and they generate shittons of heat. For 9000series you will likely need one of those dual tower cpu coolers or aquacooling.

Legacy mode is just an emulated layer on top of UEFI. It won't be a solution for your case. However, there is another board mentionned at the other sticky thread. The posters claim it can be flashed with coreboot but they did not specify the name/model. I asked them about it and they might answer in some hours.

I want to buy a TV set that can work in any country with regards to electrical input. Does such a TV exist? From my understanding, the voltages of the mainline will vary from country to country.

I'm a pleb so let me finalise: I want to buy a TV that I can plug in here in the UK and then I can take it with me and plug it into a socket in Africa. Is this possible? Do I need a special adapter?

any recs for about 30-40$ ?

isnt the same thing to buy an internal hard drive and then put it in an enclousure?

Not really when there may be a higher chance that already setup external drives may be designed as such that they nearly require the case to be severally damaged and or broken just to get at the drive inside which increases the chance of one damaging the disk. Segate needs to be nuked more than twice.

Anybody using a hybrid HDD/SSD drive? Is the speed increase noticeable?

an 8230e for bang for buck, easily overclocks to an 8350 and with more cores being considered for new programs and games, it will likely have a long life. I got one, will turn it into a HTPC down the road when there are games worthy of upgrading to.

Should I bother spending a bit more cash on the bronze PSU or will the 430w be enough?
I'll just use a gtx 1060 + 3rd gen i5 on it. And maybe a fancy cabinet with fans and shit that eats like 40-50w more. Will either be enough for me?

...

or
I have this 500w PSU with just one available molex.

Can I use a molex to two molex cable, and then use a two molex to 6pin to power up the GPU?

It's way cheaper to get those cables, but I don't know.

check the amps or watts per rail and look up the amp/watts required for the videocard.

watts = Voltage * amperes

usually they use that two-connector attachment to make sure you are plugging into a source that can handle the amperes.

It's worth it to spend some extra shekels for a good OEM cooler. Issue being that a lot of manufacturers do not follow the ref design exactly... Unless there is verified compatibility there is a chance that a supposedly compatible cooler won't fit.

Re-apply thermal paste, undervolt and see if you can improve case airflow. (of course, it's possible the fan speed profile/ramp is shit-tier. On my R9 fury, fans hum along at 20% allowing temps of 75-80deg before they ramp up. Bumping to 40% manually and making a quick ramp to 100% by 80deg adds no notable noise and now it sits at 55deg under load.)

Please enlighten us. Thinkpad only I guess since it appears Dell is shooting off poz loads rapid fire like they always have.

youtube.com/watch?v=blyswNKEPEY

If you want to go all the way then X200 with libreboot. Otherwise any X series Thinkpad will be way better than fagbook, as any ex-fagbook user will tell you. I've seen last year's X260 in new condition go for 500 euros on ebay.

For booting up and the first few programs that a user launches, it will be nearly at SSD speeds.
For files that did not get loaded onto the SSD by the algorithm on the hybrid drive, it will run at HDD speeds.

Put a new video card in, now my headphones buzz like fucking crazy due to the interference (and yes, I've tried using the rear ports, makes no difference). I need a solution to this. Would a sound card help? Or a desktop amp? If so, any recommendations? My budget is pretty tight right now...

Electrical interference. External amp would work.

can confirm. Any ISB DAC will do the job. Fiio e10 is a cheap and good option (i use it on my piece of shit company issue dell )

Do the Intel Xeon CPUs released in 2012 have radios or an equivalent of the modern Intel Active Management Technology found in their current lineup? I haven't found anything to suggest they do myself but I figured someone else may have more info.

I'm trying to get an older server for cheap to use as a router, home file storage, email, and possibly game hosting.

Not an expert on Xeons in particular, but I do have a late 2012 laptop with a somewhat comparable i7-3720QM. This computer was specifically ordered with AMT [spoiler]theoretically[/spolier] disabled, and it has all the circuitry and hardware for a 3G connection if I ever decided to add a SIM card and PCIe modem. I'm sure the Xeon CPUs were built the same way, but I doubt they would have any of the 3G equipment attached simply because they aren't laptop CPUs.

What's the deal with Geeetech selling their latest 3D printer model on Amazon under company names GIANTARM (in UK and US) and CyboForce (in DE)? Those two names' dispatch address and contact info on Amazon's pages are the exact same, so it is them, yet there's no mention of those names on their website.

On one and the more obvious hand, I've seen a number of people saying Geeetech's products and support response time and quality are all garbage, so the clear answer would be they're using "clean" names to pull in more gullible customers' money.
But at the same time, no matter where I've gone, I've only seen praise for their MeCreator 2 (always referred to as a Geeetech product too. There's no mention of GiantArm or CyboForce anywhere outside the context of Amazon that I can find), other than annoyance of loud fans. It seems unlikely they paid all those reviews and got people to fake timelapse videos of the printers working fine.

So, my question is if anyone here happens to have enough experience with them to say for sure whether I'm being overly paranoid, or if they are trying to scheme.

Im looking for an Android Smartphone and it can be a bit more expensive, any recommendations? Im coming from an iPhone 6 and before that i had an Xperia Z. Are the new chink phones good? Is there anything good on the horizon worth waiting for? Is it currently possible to buy an android phone that outperforms the iPhone 6 in all aspects?

Android OS is now total shit in every possible way. Buy such a phone (Android or not) that you can root and install some other OS on, preferably something developed by the free software or GNU/Linux community.
This is not just a knee-jerk reaction, recently I had to extensively deal with the new Android versions from 2017 and they are made for retards. They assume that if you opt out of some data collection features it must be because you're an idiot and did it by mistake, so they will constantly bug you to turn them back on as if some catastrophic error occurred. It's really become aggressive. Either you give up and become its slave or fight against it every step of the way. So not really a usable OS anymore.

Are there viable alternatives? If not i'd rather use an iPhone if it's really this bad. I don't have the time to maintain a Linux installation on my phone as well. What about those un-googled ROMs? I hear that the chink phones actually have almost no Google in them and people are struggling to get Google back on the device.

Yeah, alternative ROMs are better although they don't necessarily get rid of all the bullshit. I didn't have to deal with chink ones yet, so I can't really say anything about them.

I have basically everything turned off on my Lineage OS phone, and it doesn't seem to nag me about these things. I will agree that Android is shit, however. Whenever this five year old smartphone I have finally quits, I'm replacing it with whatever cheap, indestructible phone with a two week battery I can find.

Looking for a good smartphone is like wading through a sea of shit. Some places might only be knee deep, but you won't be clean unless you stay on the shore.

i mean, would putting an internal hard drive into an enclosure work as a external portable hard drive? as a better usb drive

any recs for that price range??

Yes it works perfectly.
The one "proper" one which is a jquery I think (the several others are the same in that they also use a mini data to usb adaptor and the case designed to allow entry however I brought them as a all in one) is a skinnly protective thing I brought for a salvaged laptop HDD at around 150 local currency conversation I think. It`s nice and easy to get into.

You will obviously need adapters. No single TV can be inserted in any electrical outlet from around the world. Each country has a different standard. But the connectors are cheap and you can get away with buying them locally in the country you will be using the TV, or you can get a traveller kit of sorts with the most used ones.

You need to be sure the TV has the proper voltage. For that, you might be better served with a "bivolt" (is that a word in english?) one, otherwise you will need a converter (transformer? Sorry, not sure the name in english, but it`s the thing that transforms current from 220 to 110 and vice versa).>>735472

I'm working on a dumb scheme to make a bunch of extra cash by uploading everything I can safely up to motherless before deleting it (I got 1tb of old porn sitting on an external hard drive I don't really look at anymore.)

I figure if I upload like 5k video files along with all my pictures, I should eventually make at least 2500, and it'll go to some use and be shared before I delete it.

Problem is a lot of the files are in formats motherless can't take, like flv, ogg, and mkv. What's the best, free program I can just dump these files into and convert into something like avi or mp4 without a significant loss in video quality that'll still keep the size under 500mb (the upload limit)? I'm looking for something simple, I am not a clever man.

I've used HandBrake before and it worked ok as far as I was concerned.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HandBrake
handbrake.fr/

i want a cheap one to try it out, 150 is way too much

what do you think of this amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZBWCKL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWZ5ROU8H8A6M for the price i cant find something better

Thanks bros. Fiio e10 seems to get a lot of mentions elsewhere too and is generally considered a solid device. Sadly it is about $109 Canadian Pesos so it will have to wait, but at least I can fix this problem eventually.

I'm looking for AM3+ motherboards with socketed BIOSes that I can just pry out and replace with a coreboot/librecore BIOS. It looks like I'm probably going to go with something from ASUS, since they have so many entries on coreboot.org/Supported_Motherboards with Yes to both socketed and reflashable BIOS categories. Unfortunately, the M5* series of boards that actually support AM3+/AMD's last line of non-pozzed FX processors do not have a single entry on their supported motherboard list.

I am interested in the M5A97 but I'm not sure how I can be sure this'll let me escape the UEFI monster.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131873&cm_re=motherboard_am3+-_-13-131-873-_-Product

Is this a good choice? What do?

The M5A97 is flashable IIRC but how are you supposed to find one to buy? They only have the M5A99 in stores nowadays.
Also interested in this, I wonder if there are UEFI-free motherboards for FX cpus other than the 60$ crap boards from gigabyte and asrock

Did you not see the newegg link? They have them in stock.

from the NSA Shadow Brokers leak, I have a question:

ETERNALBLUE and ETERNALROMANCE work great, but has anyone used ETERNALCHAMPION?

I do not know what to enter for the settings "PipeName", "ShareName", or "ShellCodeBuffer".

Or, is there a more active place for discussion on these tools? Already asked in /baphomet/

First of all, you should at least ask in "Questions and Support" instead of "Consumer Advice". A new thread would work even better, even though you won't get many serious replies beyond all the common memes.
Btw, include some links to what you're referring to if you'll create a new thread.

I saw the word "advice" in this board and clicked it. I thought there was only one support thread. Obviously I misread and I apologize.

I use Linux but I need to use certain 'professional' apps only available on mac or windows. Would you get a macbook pro or the windows 10 equivalent?

I would get a computer with good GNU/Linux support (Thinkpad) and use network-disabled Windows in a virtual machine or dual boot. macOS is unnecessary in this case, most proprietary software has a Windows version and macOS offers you no advantages if you intend to use GNU/Linux as your daily driver.

I've just bought a Fujitsu Lifebook E556 for around 500bucks and it's the TN 1366x768 model, The IPS 1080p model is available aswell and screen replacements are available, Is it safe to swap screen and how much battery would it drain compared to the 1366x768 model? I'm getting around 13 hours of battery time and I am loving it.

i7-7700k + air cooling
or
i5-7600k + water cooling?

assuming I plan to overclock the shit out of it for some sweet, sweet dorf

7700k + air cooling. Look into delidding it too. I'd recommend ryzen but it seems you want max single core perf.

Aight, how much cooling efficiency would I gain by delidding the 7700k and could i still slap water cooling on it?

before you even go near partitioning, you should load a usb with super grub boot and reserve it to be used only for that purpose. i dont know how many times i stupidly felt i needed to reformat my entire drive because i accidentally overwritten the windows MBR
the only real risk is fucking your harddrive, as long as you stay away from the bios apart from changing boot order or enabling legacy boot

A lot of 7700ks run really hot because (((intel))) started using shitty TIM between the cpu and headspreader. People have been taking off the heatspreader, replacing the shitty TIM with better TIM and putting the headspreader back on again. That's what I mean by delidding. I would try using the cpu without delidding first and seeing how your temps are. Yes you can still use water cooling.

Aight fam much appreciated.

Also a different question, how much paying for RAM is too much? Im a cheapskate generally so I would not buy 2x4gig above 60 yurops, yet I need low CL DDR4 bricks and those are 90 yurops upwards. What gives?

Girl wants to sell me her brand new 13" mac air in the box ($1200 retail) for $600. Having a hard time buying the tech meme at this price. What do y'all think?

I would buy it and immediately sell to somebody else for $900. If it's a current generation model, you should be able to get at least that out of it.

Hi Holla Forums

I need a new laptop and I want some recommendations, I'm aiming for better specs than my current laptop, which is falling apart, at the lowest possible price:

Processor intel i5 2.5GHz
RAM: 4GB
Hard drive: 500GB

Any brand except Apple will do, thx in advance.

Those specs tell us nothing.

You'll need to clarify your desired screen size, screen resolution, dual core or quad core processor requirement, onboard or dedicated GPU requirement, and how much you care about battery life before we can make any recommendations that matter. Also, does new mean still in the box, or would a good condition used laptop that is new to you be good enough? The latter would be significantly cheaper.

Here on Holla Forums, you probably won't get a recommendation that isn't a ThinkPad or maybe a Toughbook. My guess (and it is a guess) from the little information provided is a used T420/T520. They would generally run $150-250, depending on model, specs and condition.

The used ThinkPad buyer's guide might be useful.
ktgee.net/post/49423737148/thinkpad-guide

Let's say that no less than 14 inches and no more than 16 for the screen size, a dedicated 1GB GPU would be good but not mandatory, battery life no less than 4 hours, new laptop preferably, budget no more than $500

I found some examples in fry:
- Dell Inspiron 15 AMD Quad Core A9-9400 15.6" Laptop With 8GB Memory, 1TB Hard Drive
- Lenovo Ideapad 310 AMD A12-9700P Quad Core 15.6" Laptop With 12GB Memory, 1TB Hard Drive (12GB of RAM)
- Lenovo Ideapad 310 AMD A10-9600P 15.6" Laptop With 8GB Memory, 1TB Hard Drive (8GB of RAM)

Opinions?

What is a good laptop forvidya

Don't expect any of those to be blazingly fast at a $500 price point. If you could find the Intel version of that Inspiron, I think that would probably be the best of the three. The quad core AMD CPUs you listed aren't any faster than the Intel dual cores in the same price range. Haven't heard anything bad about Inspirons in a few years, but I've heard people complain about low end Lenovos recently. In particular, the stock Windows copy on a cheap Lenovo is going to be loaded full of crap and possibly spyware.

I've been out of touch on the gaymen laptop scene for a few years now, but I remember hearing that Clevos made good, inexpensive gaming laptops. They're a reference design sold by some of the smaller manufacturers like Sager. Don't know if they're actually any good or if that was just a meme. I don't mean this as an insult, but >>>/g/ would probably know more about gaming laptops than Holla Forums.

A-anyone else?

Mechanical keyboard suggestions welcome.

cherry MX Blue USB keyboard (not sure model name)
comes without any leet gamur backlights and feels nice while texting. Not good for gaming because MX blue. If you need one for gaming you can buy any MX red or MX brown.
Some jewtube reviewers claim that the Corsair K70 is the best mechanic gaming keyboard on the market right now

I'm guessing Logitech G610 (uses mx reds) is fine, then? Full-sized board is a must.

Rosewill RK-9000. It's a well-built, inexpensive mechanical keyboard. Mine has MX Blues, but there are models with other Cherry MX switches. I think there's also an upgraded model with a backlight if you want one.

Also looking for headphone replacements. My krk systems kns-6400 pads are in pieces, sound is cutting out on one side unless I get the straps just right. It's not worth getting replacement pads because of shipping, taxes and retailer markup comes to roughly half the price of a new set of headphones.

For Phillips SHP9500s the sterling conversion to EUR makes them hit the 100 mark. Over my budget. Was hoping to keep it 50-80. Anything similar?

Shit man I don't know. You might be able to buy some replacement pads off Amazon and you can fix the cut-outs with a soldering iron.

Hey Holla Forums, need help finding the right parts.
I intend to build a gaming pc. My proficiency in technology is limited so I do not know the names of the hardware. Not concerned about the price of the parts as long as it allows the pc to run smoothly.

The screen should be about 15in; is there a noticable difference in power consumption compared to a 13in?
4K or 1080p is good; sounds like there isn't a noticeable difference between the two settings on small screen.
I want it to last a few years
Have more than 4hr battery life; 8+ would be great, but am willing to compromise on battery life.
High quality processor; not sure what the difference between the best cpu and the rest is.
High quality graphics card; I want to play smoothly on medium-high settings. I read Nvidia GTX 1080 is best.
Fans might be a good idea.
Atleast 8gb ram, 16gb is good, but I don't know if I need 32gb.
1T storage. And will I have better luck with SSD or HDD? I heard SSD is newer and more efficient.
Newest network card
A comfortable keyboard would be great
Also are there any reputable companies in America that are able to build customized laptops?

FX-8320E or FX-8350? Or maybe something else in the FX series?

I'm thinking maybe FX-8320E vs FX8370E now.

???

I'm looking to find a place to buy optical drives not affected by defective by design bullshit.
All licensed DVD and bluray drives have built in drm features. Where are the "Chinese copies" of these? There's a ton of fake iphones and such readily available and I am pretty certain that not all manufacturers of "so-called" DVD and bluray drives actually get the certifications to put the logos on there.

tl;dr Where to get non-DRM DVD or bluray drives?

I need a Business laptop from 13" to 14" Possibly with a 1080p screen around 800$ and can't find anything accettable, am I doomed?

Even the LG ones?
I guess this is why I needed Anydvd in the past when I was ripping DVDs

I've got the nitro one and I'm quite happy with it.

How about these headphones? amzn.eu/aNvtkm0

Is the Gigabyte GA-AX370-Gaming K5 worth buying for 710 PLN (~200$) compared to the much cheaper MSI B350 TOMAHAWK for 460 PLN (~116$)?

I'd be pairing it up with an R5 1600 and would like to oc it to 4.0 GHz, will the Tomahawk do? what about VRM cooling?

I have the 681s, they're alright but nothing special. 33 pounds seems like a good deal though.

Look up reviews, dude. The main question with Ryzen seems to be if you're planning on running 3000MHz+ RAM, the Infinity Fabric benefits from it but it's not cheap and not a lot of motherboards can do it.

Getting an ASUS motherboard (because they use socketed BIOS EEPROMs and have a good track record with coreboot) to go with my AMD FX-8320E. Is the M5A97 R2.0 a good choice?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131873&cm_re=motherboard_am3+-_-13-131-873-_-Product

Basically any big manufacturer has to pay, pass certifications and get the logos put in there or they can't be legally marketed (at least in the US) as "dvd drives", same goes for bluray.
There's no problem ripping dvds, libdvdcss/anydvd/etc. authenticates with the drive similarly to a certified dvd player application and after that the drive's firmware no longer denies read requests to css protected sectors and you can normally read the disc like it wasn't css protected.

I would really like to own a drive which never denies to read anything and because of that, would never get the certification to legally be called a "dvd drive" in the US.

Surely some other people would rather own a drive that does not do this bullshit as well?

Should I bite the bullet and buy the GTX 1080 for $480

I've been waiting three years for a good AMD card but the 5xx killed any hope I had left.

Using a 1440p monitor

wait for Vega

I've been waiting two years for vega though

Did a whole day of posts in this thread just get wiped?

8350 if you are not overclocking at all.
8320e if you are overclocking some but not heavily.
8350 if you are overclocking on a more costly and capable mb
8320e if you are overclocking on budget mb that caps out at 140w or less-- like the asrock pro 970m (this is the best combo for bang for buck usually for fx--I have this for couple years now)
Sometimes you will find the 8350 on sale for cheaper than any other 83xx, in that case, snap it up.
Depending on your usage, ie not the latest gaming and just web, the 4350, 6300, 6350 will work, but the 83xx will likely last longer as the trend of utilizing more cores is being encouraged. Consider your gpu as well to avoid bottle necks.

I may end up overclocking eventually on but I also quite like the energy efficiency aspect in general of the 8320E. The 8350 is $5 cheaper than the 8320E right now, but it's a 125W CPU and from my understanding you're supposed to have a 990X or 990FX board for those.

was thinking about getting the mid tier Ryzen as I have an Intel q8300 from 2009.
So obviously now I have to change motherboards. all the new "muh ryzen ready" motherboards have dozens of reviews of huge BIOS and startup issues and hassle, although it could be all the normalfags using windows 10.
What motherboard would be good to fit a Ryzen to that isin't 300$?

I've seen the gigabyte ga-ab350 gaming 3 being recommended, the msi b350 tomahawk looks fine too
the gigabyte one has better audio but I'm not sure about the vrm cooling

Is it viable/possible to use one of these cheap ARM boards as a daily driver web browser/email checker? Specifically asking about these in particular (with Allwinner SoCs), because apparently the Linux kernel doesn't actually have display drivers.

How's the Philips X2?

I was thinking about buying it, but reading reviews it seems to have bad highs, even the positive reviews seem to agree on that.

why did SSDs go from being square drives to sticks

When they transitioned from using the old SATA format designed for hard drives to the newer M.2 interface that was actually designed for SSD speeds?

I've heard of somebody who did this with a first generation Raspberry Pi when their main computer died. These A20 boards are at least twice as powerful as that Pi was, and they seem to have good mainline kernel support except for the lack of video acceleration. It's probably similar to to a Pentium 4 in terms of performance.

Never put a lot of thought into RAM before. What the fuck should I be considering? Seems actually more complicated than choosing a CPU or motherboard.

There are two basic measurements: timing and frequency. The timing is just a measure of how many cycles it takes for operations to complete, so 7-7-7 latency RAM for example would need 7 cycles to read back data for I don't remember which three operations. Regardless of the frequency, the memory chips themselves will require basically the same latency as measured in seconds to return data, so if you try to overclock a 1600 MHz kit to 2133 MHz, assuming that the kit itself is capable of running at that speed, there is a chance you might have to increase the timing 2-3 numbers to get it to run right, but it would still have the same amount of latency because there are more cycles per second. Both frequency and latency have an impact on total memory bandwidth.

If not overclocking or running integrated graphics, 1600 or 1866 MHz RAM with the lowest timing you can find should be enough but systems more dependent on memory bandwidth sometimes perform much better with higher frequency RAM.

Holy shit G.Skill has about 20 different product lines for desktop RAM.

I am getting an FX-8320E (95W CPU) with significant overclocking potential and a motherboard with a 140W maximum and, while I very much like the low-power aspect of the CPU, I also want to keep my options open for overclocking it in the future. What should I be looking for in a dual-channel set of DDR3 RAM?

My recommendation is 1866-2133 MHz with the lowest latency you can find for a decent price. If you are seriously concerned about energy saving, you could theoretically run a higher end kit at 1600 MHz to save a few Watts, then clock it up if you decide to overclock the CPU.

I have an Athlon 750K with 1600 MHz 9-9-9-24 RAM on a stock cooler. It's a quad core Piledriver CPU with a 3.4 GHz stock clock and no GPU. I use systester's qcborwein method of calculating Pi as a combination benchmark and stability test. With this workload, the RAM starts to bottleneck at 4.3 GHz. If I overclock the RAM to 1866 MHz and the memory controller to 2200 MHz from I think 1800 MHz, it shifts the bottleneck back to the CPU, but causes the CPU to put out more heat than the stock 65W FM2 cooler can handle because it spends less time waiting for the RAM and more time crunching numbers. For this reason, I turned it down to 4.2 GHz and 1600 MHz as my daily OC until I decide to upgrade the cooler.

I would imagine that the extra four cores on an 8320E would require substantially higher bandwidth to reach full potential, but I'm not sure exactly how much more. My gut feeling is the next fastest speed from what my system requires (1866 at 4.3 becomes 2133 at 4.3) but you will probably have to run your own tests or find somebody that has done so with an FX-8300 series CPU to be sure. Or maybe find out what the FX-9370 and FX-9590 like and use that.

Whichever is cheapest and/or prettiest should be fine. Most of the time, the difference is just the shape of the heat spreader. Pic unrelated.

what's the cheapest way to buy a 360 controller? the wireless kind
I never owned a controller before

I am looking for a fast, secure, reliable VPN outside of the 14 eyes, preferably for cheap and one that works across many platforms.

Can anyone help me out?

I pay monthly for Mullvad. They let you pay with buttcoins.

any of you guys ever use a network unlocking service? I wanted to get my moto g4 unlocked but I really don't want to get scammed by some shitty website.

quick rundown on this one guys?

coreboot.org/Supported_Motherboards

The first section is laptops. Scroll down until you see green, and pick which ThinkPad you want. If you don't want to compile your own coreboot image, go look at what libreboot supports.

Thanks fam, I was going to go with a 1600 MHz RAM but it's sounding like I'd better get 1866 or even 2133 for future overclocking.

I'm looking to replace my tablet and heavy as fuck laptop with some light 2-in-1. It has to have Windows because of work programs, and some CPU/RAM grunt to run calculations, as well as some way to hook it up to a projector. Ideally it should also have a good battery life or, at least, a small charger, and it shouldn't be a pain in the ass to replace the battery itself or do other minor replacements (SSD/HDD etc.). Integrated graphics is fine.

I've narrrowed it down to either a Microsoft SP4 or a 13 HP Spectre X360, but both have glaring faults. The SP4 has shit battery life and the internal battery is glued with an ungodly amount of adhesive, whilst the HP is a HP with some reports of burning motherboards.

Any thoughts? Other recommendations?

With thw new humble bundle, they are selling software but one of them is a year sub to a VPN called Speedify, anyone ever used it?

also you get WINZIP of all things with it.

Why are there so many different kinds of thermal paste? Who makes the best goo?

It's all pretty much the same. Buy Noctua or Arctic Silver if you care enough to need a name.

Thermal grizzly has the best thermal conductivity but with increasing conductivity the compound gets very viscous and it will spread not as good when pressed with the cpu cooler.

Need an SSD for my Dankpad x200.
European prices are foolish.
What's the most convenient (both for cost and power consumption) one?

mSATA?

What's the best cheapass video card I can throw in an old office box just to get a second monitor on it? I'm talking like in the $20-$40 range. Data entry on a single screen is suffering to the point that I'm willing to put my own money into upgrading my office workstation's PC.

I'm on this, with aftermarket RAM jammed in to capacity.
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883114088

Nope, standard SATA connector with 2.5" drive.

this firepro would probably be your best bet

ebay.com/itm/ATI-FirePro-V4800-1GB-GDDR5-PCIe-DVI-I-2xDisplay-Port-Graphics-Card-0X31G-Tested-/262954395057?hash=item3d394da5b1:g:qCoAAOSwHptZALEt

has two hdmi ports so you can plug in a couple monitors as long as they're reasonable.

the v4800s are usually going for 20-40. If you want a brand new card you're going to need to bump your price limit to 60-80.

Jesus am I behind the times. I picked up a cheap monitor at GoodWill and all it's got is VGA in. I may have to do more digging after all. Thanks.

my monitor from 2013 only has vga, I use an active display port adapter. I don't want to get a new monitor since I got the color profile on this one exactly the way I like it.

oh if you want one with vga you can pick up a GT 730, this ones 60 but i've seen a few floating around for 40

amazon.com/PNY-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics-VCGGT7301D5LXPB/dp/B00KYCTCZ8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493410413&sr=1-3&keywords=graphics card&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin:6147184011,p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin:5779425011

whatever you do, don't get the ddr3 model, it has to be the gddr5 one. The ddr3 ones are total pieces of shit. I assume you don't plan to play games on this but that should be enough for some light office work at least.

Best headphone amp to go with the HD800S?

The other user posted better cards, but your absolute cheapest options for brand new cards are the GT 210 and the Radeon 5450. The 5450 is passively cooled, if you care about that. These are both going to be dog slow, but probably still faster than the 6150SE you are using now.

amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Passive-Graphics-01G-P3-1313-KR/dp/B004KABG1I/ref=sr_1_1/136-7057373-2638564
amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-Profile-PCI-Express-ONXFX1PLS2/dp/B007B5YUMQ/ref=sr_1_1/146-2287327-3478035

Correction: both of those cards are passively cooled.

b u m p

I have a laptop with a single memory stick. It's a Hynix "4GB 2Rx8 PC3-10600S-9-10-F2". I want to buy a second memory stick and I want them to work in dual channel. Would a "Kingston ValueRAM SO-DIMM 4 GB DDR3 1333 MHz CL9" work? Seems to have the same specs. Or do I need to get the exact same model?

Exact same model is best.

What about same specs, different brand though? Would you say that it will probably work, or that it will probably not work?

Should work, but depends also on the BIOS firmware. It's a russian roulette. Be sure to buy from a source that allows returns, just in case.

I'm looking for a reliable PSU for under 70€, i use a gtx 1060 with a i5 7600. Which one of these should i take? Or can you advise me something else?

amazon.it/EVGA-100-W1-0600-K2-Alimentazione-600W-Colore/dp/B0100QRRTK?tag=tabella800-21
amazon.it/dp/B00LMBSTTA/ref=asc_df_B00LMBSTTA32444865?smid=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&tag=tomsforum-21&linkCode=df0&creative=23422&creativeASIN=B00LMBSTTA
amazon.it/Seasonic-S12II-520-BRONZE-SS-520GB/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493487927&sr=8-1&keywords=Seasonic S12II

What's a decent mouse that's, preferably wired but with the ability to unplug and be wireless, and if not just wired?

Where can I buy a usb3.1 external header for plugging into pic related? I see tons of USB3 and USB2 external headers but no such thing seems to exist yet for this new 3.1 connector on my new motherboard.

i thinking of getting this. is there any reason not to?

$400, can't be librebooted

why can't it be librebooted? it's a t400

I'm pretty sure you need your eyes checked, user.

im new to thinkpads, please tell my why i can't install libreboot on it.

Your pic clearly says it's a T420. The way the newer ThinkPad model numbers work, you typically have a series letter first (T-series, X-series, etc.), followed by a number representing the screen size, a number representing the generation of the ThinkPad, and a zero. For example, a T400 is a mid-sized 14" ThinkPad from 2009. The T510 would be one generation newer, and have a 15" screen. A X220 would be one year newer than the T510, and is an ultraportable with a 12" screen. That X220 would be the same generation as a T420. The "s" at the end of the model number on this T420s you are looking at means that the machine is built to be a bit thinner than a typical T420, but otherwise has the same guts and specs.

tl;dr a T420 isn't a T400. A T420 is in the T4x0 series, yes, but the guts are entirely different because they're two generations apart, and Libreboot hasn't yet done the work necessary to support anything newer than the original T400. The Libreboot compatibility list means the exact number T400, not the T4x0 series.

libreboot.org/docs/hardware/#supported_laptops_x86intel

Unrelated to that, $450 is way too much money for a T420. According to the Used ThinkPad Buyer's Guide, a typical T420 is only worth about $150. This one is unusual because it has a fairly large SSD and a lot of RAM, but I still wouldn't pay more than $225 for it, and even then only if it's in like-new physical condition with a new battery.

ktgee.net/post/49423737148/thinkpad-guide

Thanks

You can. But only on the ones who have a Core2 Duo processor.

The queer at lireboot is working on newer generations, but there's still work to do.

Best phone to get?

I'd go with Seasonic, they're pretty reliable. You might consider a 620W instead of 520W though, if you have any plans of needing more power in the future.

ok so my request is pretty simple (or at least it should be) i can't find a compatible motherboard fucking anywhere that works with my parts, all of them have been incompatible with at least ONE of my things. i need one that can hold an i-5 7600k, a gtx 970 and 8gb of ddr3 ram, simple as.
also a side question, should i go for the i-5 7600k or is there a better cpu for my money?

I've been out of the loop for about 6 years now and it's high time I built a new desktop. What's the current best configuration I can go with? 1080Ti + Ryzen 7 1800X? Or is the Ryzen line actually shit after all?

ryzen is good, the r7 1800 and 1800x are a bad purchase though because the cheapest r7 1700 can be overclocked identically to its more expensive brothers
the next one worth buying is the r5 1600

What do I buy to make my desktop into something similar to usb hard drive but in Raid and with multiple drives? Or should I just go with multiple usb hard drives w/ enclosures?

The death of KAT along with Nyaa was the final straw and now I'm mass torrenting shit. I expect to find myself running out of space really fast.

You could always use a battery grip with AA-batteries with big DSLR camera (pictures 1 and 2). But that could be too big, heavy and expensive. DSLR and other "professional" cameras also may be too complex to use, even if they would feature automatic modes. Image quality wise nothing beats them, but I don't think how much that interests you.

The last camera using AA-batteries natively seems to be Nikon B500 (picture 3). It does not have 20 megapixels (5152 x 3864), rather "only" 16 megapixels (4608 x 3456). But still it seems in sample pictures there is not that much detail in at 100% crop at this price and sensor level, so high megapixel value seems to be just marketing as usual. At least on this price level. I do not own it, these remarks have only been made from videos.

The B500 can capture 1080p videos only at 30P (no 60 frames per second progressed, only interlaced), seems to have okay mic quality at least in some youtube videos (no idea if recorded using the camera's primary mic). Seems to be under halve of your budget, but I don't know how fast it's startup is. It does have idiotically big zoom, but that doesn't interest you.

The B500 is still rather big, bigger than your previous camera. Definitely not pocketable. You may want to check for other models using AA-batteries. here: dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsBatteryNew¶mSpecsBatteryNew=AA,AAA

I personally use different DSLRs or mirrorless cameras in my freetime and would recommend those for their image quality, flexibility and manual controls. Their downside is size and weight.

An old desktop is easily turned into a fileserver plus torrentbox. This way your files are accessible via your local network and will be accessible just as a usb drive.

Where should I host my mail? I'm willing to pay for a good service. My primary concerns are privacy and stability. I want a service with a reputation of providing good privacy for their users. Something like Protonmail, based in Switzerland which has strict privacy laws comes to mind. I'm not really sure how you'd know how the company treats their users (so what if they say they use end-to-end encryption, unless I generate the keypair on my own PC and never give them the private key, how can I trust them. And people sending e-mail to me will mostly do so in plaintext, who's to say at which point it's encrypted?) but maybe some of you know more about this than I do.
It's also a big pro if I can use my old email. I have my own domain with my own email address using this domain. It would also be nice if I can have one mailbox for multiple identities. I have an email I use for people that personally know me, and another one to be given to people on the net (on seperate domains even, both mine, but anonymized in case they do a whois lookup)

I'm willing to pay a few tens of euros per year.

I'm going to China, should I wait until I'm there to buy laptop or nah? Also, looking for a laptop, like 500$ tops probably, dont want to spend more. What are some good 500$ or less laptops? I dont play videogames.

Use multiple mails (one per site/operation) and register them all over Tor. Protonmail is good enough for that purpose, they even have a hidden service.
If your approach is to find a trustworthy email provider then you're already doing it wrong. Assume the provider will rat you out from the very start.

Anyone have experience with digital camcorders? I'm looking for something decent to live stream events with. All the shops in my area have the same shitty Sony model so I guess I need to shop around online.

I'm looking to replace my Intel ME infested system with something less hazardous, which basically means old AMD parts. Are AM3 chips (Athlons/Phenoms) still usable or am I better off with a Vishera chip?

Not sure why you would use an Athlon II or Phenom when Vishera exists.

However, depends on what you mean by usable. I did use my old Athlon 4200+ 2X for over a decade until my motherboard finally fried last month.

Power and heat concerns, mostly. If I can get away with using a 65w Athlon instead of a 125w FX pressure cooker I'd like to. I'm just not sure if it's worth dropping the newer instruction sets and the possibility of eventually putting a 8350 into the motherboard.

The 8320E and 8370E and some hex- and quad-cores are 95W you know.

Replacing pic related that I've had for a decade.
What's the new sub-$100 meme router that's just as reliable, has custom firmware, but has better wifi range? It's just for 4 people in a ~4000 sq ft home.

pcpartpicker.com/list/jjyf4C

I was planning on making a budget gaymen PC for only around $500, how does this look?

They're all trash except for the netgear nighthawk, and that's not sub-$100.

Still looking for an answer for this. Thanks.

Have things really flipped that much? They were the Bose of routers.

Good analogy. Bose always sucked, they're the apple of audio.

How does flashing a T-Mobile ASUS AC1900 ($80 on jewazon) to Merlin compare to a Nighthawk? Seems like the way to go for price/performance unless it's less stable (reliability is king for me)

Hey. I'm a poorfag and I need a cheap laptop. Does buying a chromebook a good idea ? I feel like yes but there is a lot of hate for those computer. What model should I buy ? Is it like a standard computer (I mean, can I install the OS I want by accessing de bios and so on, or it is pure cancer like smartphone ?)
I just want fedora to run on it.

looking to debotnet hardware

where is the hardware related info collection? been all over the wiki and bought a mechanical keyboard and other stuff, but can not find it.

what were the latest CPUs that are management engine free?
I saw a core2 E8400 for 12eur on amazon.
will it fit on a Gigabyte GA-H77-D3H socket 1155? (idk about backwards compatability or w/e)
if no any recommendations for nonpozzed mainboard?

also interested in cheapish graphics card wich can do 3x 2560x1440, displayport preferred. have a radeon 7870, but the fans are dying and I have doubts about beeing cost efficient with spending 20+$ and having to do the repair myself
does not have to do gaming. some video editing and rendering.
maybe some recommendation for commercial repair shops? like that site where you send crapple for them to fix for cheap?

also any tldr on a retail/commercial nonpozzed router?

regards

uses?
look into thinkpad x60/x61
generally you want to buy used

I just tried it and it's awful.

I took a video I downloaded off youtube to test, and cut a specific clip from it (which is closest to what I actually want to use it for) about 3 seconds from a 3 min video.

The end result is an MP4 with no sound, or Webms that crash the browser.
When I tried to add the audio to a separate track, the segment I snipped out turned into a segment from earlier in the video (of the same length). Not to mention 2 or 3 seemingly random crashes (soft & hard) when I kept cutting bits of the video off (though that might be due to my laptop being shit- but surely it can manage snipping up a video?)

I tried to upload the MP4 to show you all and got this message:

Uploading the Webm give this error:

I can't see the options for either of those when outputting the video.
I've got number of channel layouts for audio, and along with MP4 (H264) I have MP4 (mpeg4) and MP4 (xvid).
Or should I fiddle with the Bitrates of the video & audio quality?

well, mostly stuff that don't need much RAM or anything (browsing, watching movie, using libre office)

I like the idea of chromebook but I feel like it will be shit. Does someone here have bought one and can tell me ?

And it gets worse.
Tried Mpeg4- it outputs a clip of the same length but from a different place to where I clipped it.
And every-time it crashes (which can even be when you just play the video in the editor), any save-file associated with it is wiped clean. As if just saved a new blank project.

In fact I want to buy a Asus C201 because it is cheap as hell and because it has libreboot supported. Is it a good Idea.
I'm not a full Holla Forumsnician, I don't really understand how difficult it is to run Fedora on those machine.

Numbers don't lie, it's basically the only "consumer grade" router that's worth anything at all. It goes like this:

R7k master race!

You could try asking on Notebookreview's Discord, it's more like Holla Forums than NBR.

A-anybody?

Here's a tough ask, a 5GHz router that's well supported under openwrt, that has a low chance of hardware backdoors?

Looking at the archer C7 but it's straight out of China.

Should I wait for Vega to finish a build or just buy a laptop?

Used sandybridge thinkpad on ebay.

What is the best/cheapest way of setting up a simple NAS server? Just buy a consumer NAS all in one, and if yes, which one? Build some shit with a Raspberry? And i don't have an unused computer lying around.

Anyone have a keyboard chart?

raspi is shit, enjoy no sata ports and under spec usb2. If you just want low power and one hard drive get a usb3 router and put openwrt on it, some can do 45MB/s transfer rate. If you want more, get a low powered actual motherboard, those nas things just seem like a support clusterfuck to me.

Also fuck actual raid, I've had 2 unrecoverable failures, making about 3TB inaccessable. I recommend snapraid if you don't need the extra throughput. Also lets unused drives spin down.

I have a pentium 3 with a new efficient power supply, draws 60w with 6 drives spinning. Meh, it was free on the side of the road

My router has a USB 3.0 port but the NAS functionality is locked by the ISP that gave it to me it seems. I also don't find the model on the openwrt table of hardware, ZyXEL Speedlink 5501. Is there any hope or do i have to buy a new router? Because at that point the investment is equal to a dedicated NAS system.

A few things:

In my experience (have worked in Asia multiple times), electronics like brand name Laptops will cost more than their American counterparts. Something local like Xiaomi/Clevo/Jumper not so much.

Try and buy in HK. Mainland China has a 20 to 40% tax on imported goods. Hong Kong doesn't.

If you end up purchasing, look for a local warranty and try to buy new (if you can). Ask for the warranty explicitly because they will ring you up a sale without ever mentioning it.

Expect pirated software; especially the OS. They might even try to up sell you on Office/Adobe etc etc claiming legitimacy but it will all be pirated and you'll pay software you could get free.

Good luck!

cont.: i found a way to modify the configuration binaries you can save as a backup, and gave my account administrative rights, i can use it as a NAS now.

Fucking champion

m.ebay.com/itm/12-5-quot-Lenovo-Thinkpad-X220-Intel-Core-I5-2-50-GHz-8GB-RAM-120GB-GB-SSD-Tablet-PC-/162504623134?txnId=1549931093006

Did I do good?

Lolwut?

Apparently my new motherboard likes freezing up in conjunction with my old wireless card. Should I get a new PCI wireless card or some obnoxious external USB dongle? What are all the cool kids using for wi-fi these days?

Or mini-PCIe for that matter?

I have an AC1900. I installed DD-WRT using an RJ-45 cable I already had. Uptimes are regularly 45 days before I restart the network myself (my own neuroticism). I am in a high interference RF environment, far from groundplane (900 sq/ft top floor apartment) and have trouble with many electrical devices (old wiring). I pay for 150mbit cable, pipe the connection through a 4x16 modem, and I turned beamforming off. I regularly get 20Mb/s over wireless in actual usage. YMMV.

I have an HP Proliant server running 4x4TB with a SATA SSD cache. I set up docker inside Unraid and use docker containers for everything. It's super simple to set up once you get the hang of the filesystem. I've used containers hosted by others, as well as rolled my own for applications I wanted to run in that environment just for consistency. I've been happy with it so far, and recommend it to anyone who likes to tinker with tech, but wants their OS involvement to be similar to that of Slackware.

I want to make a build with a Ryzen 1600. I need to decide the motherboard. Which are the best brands for that? The LogicalIncrements guide recommended me MSI (who it seems to have lots of gimmicks) and ASRock (who it seems that they're too cheap).
Pics related, the different versions of the MSI board. I don't know which are the differences.

READ REVIEWS

Consumer-grade NASs offer the best value proposition unless you need 10+ drives or want full control over your hardware. The later apply to me, so I can't help you with the selection.

What's best itx mobo and ram to go along with it for gaming/3D sculpting, preferably without the need to update the bios to get them to work together? Also good customer support?

I feel like my new ASUS motherboard's shitty compatibility with my old wireless card is a trick to get me to buy one of their own.

I don't want to be shilled.

Use critical thinking skills to determine what you're reading is truth and what is lies.

Is M.2 worth upgrading to for my OS drive or should I just get a bigger standard SDD for the same price? I'd also need an adapter and would lose access to my last PCIe slot.

How good are Intel's newer iGPUs on Kabylake? Should I still wait when Raven Ridge/Ryzen APUs finally come out for laptops? Not needing them for anything 'intensive', but to at least to use ROM dumps of my PS2 games and to render 720p videos.

I want a mobile phone that's free of proprietary software. It doesn't have to be a "smart" phone, it just needs to be free of spyware and backdoors, government or otherwise.

The baseband makes that impossible at least for modern devices, the N900 had a user controls and had a libre replacement if I renember right. The only libre mobile OS that I know only works on device drivers and such.

Should I spend an extra 22€ to get a "80 Plus Gold" power supply instead of "80 Plus Bronze"? The benefit is of a 5% benefit.

Those don't always mean much. Look up jonnyguru or hardwarecanucks reviews for the specific units.

pcpartpicker.com/list/TrY7BP
I can't decide wether the Seasonic M12II 620W Bronze (96.95€) or the EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W Gold 550W (94.95€).
The Seasonic one has more power (LogicalIncrements recommends me a 620W power supply for this build), but it has an 80 PLUS of Bronze.
The EVGA has less power, but an 80 PLUS of Gold, making it more efficient and more long-lasting.
It's 550W enough for this build? It's 80 PLUS a gimmick?

lmao europoors

Either is fine. 550w is fine unless you're planning on heavily overclocking both the CPU and GPU. They've both got five year warranties, the EVGA is fully modular, the Seasonic has more headroom.

Need a new wireless card since my new motherboard causes GNU systems to freeze in conjunction with my old one. Should I get a wireless N card or try to futureproof with a more pricey wireless AC card? Really bothers me that Intel seems to have a monopoly on all the cheap wireless AC cards. What's their secret?

This is probably a stupid question, but who is the least shit ISP in the Southeast United States?
I'm moving out soon and will need internet for at least two people.

Intel are blobby bitches. Get a nice ath9k card, I easily max out my 100M connection, and they're even cheaper.

Looking for advice on a PSU
EVGA 550w 80+ Gold Certificate
amazon.co.uk/dp/B00V5B76LE/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
or
Corsair 550W 80+ Bronze Certificate amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020102-UK-CX550M-Bronze-Certified/dp/B01C3FFLZ8
is it worth the extra £30 for a gold?

Need Mass Storage

Usual setup has been

One of the drives died a while ago, and now the second one feels like it's on it's way out. I need some more Mass storage and will use the current dying big drive as the second overflow one, but I cannot decide what I'm getting. Previous two 2TB have been Seagate Barracuda's, they were £50 about 5 years ago but for some reason appear to be £70-90 and advertise slower speeds. Why is this?

Instead of Seagate I'm thinking maybe Western Digital. Again WD Blues were ~£50 for 2TB a few years ago and again appear to be £70+ now. Why are the prices shooting up for technology that keeps on aging? Should I go for a £70 WD blue? I am tempted to spend the extra thirty on the £100 WD Black since I do a fair bit of video editing. Is the difference between the colours worth any price difference really?

Basically what HDD's have you lads got and/or would recommend?

I've got these around, not using them in my current living arrangement but previously used them for several years, really liked them. Especially for the price (at that time £60). I agree with other posters that 5.1 is being used all the time as a useless marketing trick, but in this case I do like those speakers.

Several years ago the factories in Thailand or wherever responsible for most of the world's HDDs flooded. The market has never recovered because the resulting price spike drove customers to use streaming and cloud services instead of buying their own storage.

Normalfags don't buy HDDs, demand is down, price never returned to pre-flood lows.

This thing refuses to even register with my current computer, so I think I'm going to try and build a new PC with this as the GPU. This will be my first time attempting to actually build a rig, as my current PC is pre-built, so I'm a complete newfag to buying proper parts. Can anyone recommend me parts that are guaranteed to work with this thing? The goal is to play most modern games at 1080p, as well as emulating Gamecube/PS2 at 1080p, all at a stable framerate. I can settle for 720p, at the bare minimum.

I need info on:

Kek they said that about RAM years ago didn't they? Factory caught fire and prices shot up, never came down because that's what people would pay.

I've settled on ordering the 4TB Toshiba X300 for £120. Toshiba appears to be the most reliable through studies I've seen, and reviewers are claiming it's giving them nearly 200mb/s, and with the 128mb buffer it seems to run as well as the WD Black except with more storage. I'll post back here in a while on how it performs.

I can cancel the order if people say soon

i recommend these depending on how much you're willing to spend:
amazon.com/HGST-Deskstar-3-5-Inch-Internal-0S03839/dp/B00O0M5QK8
amazon.com/HGST-Deskstar-3-5-Inch-Internal-0S03664/dp/B00HHAJRU0
amazon.com/dp/B01IA9H22Q

hgst is known for reliability and the 10tb seagate is a big ass drive and also rivals the reliability of the hgst drives (tb for tb)

I want to buy some earphones for less than 50GBP however I just cannot find any stickies or information-pics related to headphones and earphones. It's very odd. Can someone guide me?

I want to buy a notebook in which you can change every part. Motherboard included.

Minimum:
Processor i3 at least 2.0 GHz.
At least 4 USB ports.

That is impossible.

Well shit.jpg
So maybe one which won't brick itself after 3 years.

Still impossible. I would suggest a older system as more of it is likely to be end user servicable or one may have a much easier time trying to find the service manual online however offordable avability will very likely be a massive issue. I know that the GPU can be replaced by the end user however that is mostly with older makes and is was DOA due to pricing and other market values (.e.g worthness and profit margins). Storage plus RAM have likely always have and will be. Wifi chips yes, but there is likely to be a firmware whitelist and not evey laptop has Coreboot/Libreboot support to hopefully remove the whitelist. Some modern makes, use desktop CPU's however the UEFI/BIOS, the rest of the system and cooling have likely been fine tuned/hard coded to only support the specific sold model. Finally there very likely isn't a motherboard standard (even amoungst brands/product lines) for laptops for a few possible reasons likely more, A) it would probably make them appear even more like a commodiety which likely leads to a race to the bottom and resulting reduction in overall quality, B) the varity in physical attributes.

I can't choose bettwen a Xperia Z3 and the Galaxy S6

I like both design and i know that the S6 is more "new" and have a better prossesor. maybe a better camera and have fingerprint scarnner but the S6 can't have SD cards, don't have water/dust resistance and have a very poor battery.

Which do you think is the best option?

Somebody on the internet recommended this budget upgrade. I'm planning on buying one part per month since I'm a poorfag and have already bought the SSD.
My paycheck just came in and I was going to go ahead and start with a MOBO (then processor, then RAM which I may change to a 2x8GB instead of the 2x4GB listed right now).

Any thoughts, precautions, recommendations? I'm not going to just buy it today, mind you, I still have bills and debts to pay off first.

Increased RAM is probably the easist thing to notice next to a faster drive as the system will feel much snapper. So I would suggest that be the next on the list, then the CPU/Motherboard. Just some general advice, ensure that you give the system at least five to ten seconds before turning it off at the PSU and then another five to ten before turning off at the socket before changing or remove it from the socket speaking from expirence otherwise the FS (file System) is likely to corrupt it's self on HDD's with SSD's being just fine.

Thanks for the power advice.
Regarding RAM, if I do find a 2x8GB set for less than a $100, then I'd get that instead and my current motherboard can only support up to 8GB in DDR3. The one in partpicker pic is DDR4.

Well seeing as DDR versions aren't compabile I can only really see one option avabile, try to hold on the current system untill you can buy all three components then upgrade as one set,buying/borrowing a single smaller capacity DDR3 stick to use in the mean time . As for the power advice I am not shure if that is the exact range but it feels right. At any rate it is good idea to give the system time to ensure that data is flushed to disk and nothing is half witten.

Also RAM is one the areas (another is Optical Drives) where names reallly mean nothing as they will most likely all perform within ~1% to ~5% of each other. Also any not super super low one e.g. $5 should last for quite a while due to the ratively simplcty,the stagnet/incremental "improvements" espically in Optical Drives.

a budget phone you dont give a shit about if it breaks

Your best choice would be a grammar book, so that you could learn how conjugate verbs.

I need to get a new TV and i'm trying to decide between the 48 inch hitatchi 48k3 brand new for 250 and the LG 49LF5400 49 inch TV for 250, it's refurbished.

which one is the better buy in the long term? I'm not all that familiar with refurbished stuff but I want to make sure the TV lasts at least a few years.

oh and does the extra inch of screen space really make that much of a difference? I sit about 8-9 feet from the TV.

What is the best draw tablet for under 100 buckaroos?

Is there a good resource to look at the objective specs and features of processors from AMD and Intel? I'm trying to figure out what the fucking DIFFERENCE is between the Ryzen 1700, 1700X, 1800, and 1800X, but I can't get a good answer. Every review site is 10 pages of benchmarks and fucking around with games and peripheral components, forums are all non-technical opinions like "this is a better deal", and AMD's own website is non-functional.

wikipedo has nicely laid tables
the difference between these ryzens is in frequencies, tdp and price
also there's no 1800 (non-X)
the rule of thumb is to get the cheapest one with the number of cores you want, because once overclocked, they all perform the same

best buy is the 1600

I'm looking to buy a new mouse, is amazon.com/dp/B00025O7FC/ good, or should I get something else for < $30?

Would like gaming laptop recommendations. I know
and all, but I work for a railway company so I'm stuck in a hotel nine days in a row every work cycle and am bored out of my mind.

Mostly want it to run a couple simultaneous instances of Guild Wars 1 comfortably and to also support graphics-light but processor-heavy stuff like grand strategy games, but more powerful than that is good too in case I want to play something else.

Durability/longevity is good, price isn't much of a concern.

Battery life isn't a concern at all since it'll be plugged in pretty much all the time anyway.

Thanks for any recommendations.

What's a tablet I could buy whose only job will be to read PDF books and preferably won't connect to the internet? Trying to keep it under $50; playing music and telling the time would be neat things but they shouldn't push the budget.

Do Intel iGPU’s support 2560×1440 @ 120 Hz? I know they wont reach 120 fps in new games; I only play Madden 08, Unreal Tournament 1999, Age of Empires II, etc. Old games. I also want to watch movies at a multiple of 24 fps. Right now I have 60 Hz with pulldown.

I would get a 144 Hz monitor but set it to 120 to have a multiple of 30 and 60 fps.

Also, same question, but in Linux?

Check out the G203, 1GHz polling rate and $10 more. You can store DPI/controls right on the mouse's onboard memory, which is great.

Do you mind used laptops? Check out ebay for 680m 780m laptops. If you do get used, do a GPU stress test to make sure they didn't reheat the GPU solder joints (failure).

This is probably a troll, but no.

Something like this would do you better
amazon.com/M-Audio-10-Watt-Compact-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B00X741TKG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494796591&sr=1-2&keywords=m+audio+speakers&th=1

Surround sound is overrated. Those Logitech speakers are basically two sets of $20 speakers. The ones you use for rear surround will be used like 1% of the time. Even in gimmicky surround sound movies (Matrix, House of Flying Daggers, etc) you only get a couple of scenes where a bullet flies behind you or something dumb like that.

TL/DR waste your money on shit speakers to hear some gimmick effects once in a while, or get quality stereo speakers and have better sound 99% of the time.

For serious gaming you need headphones tbh.

...

Would prefer new.

How the fuck will he play games at that resolution at 120hz? It will be a stuttery mess. Even UT99 will benefit from discrete graphics as it's a single core game.

tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
Intel HD 530 is equivalent to an NVIDIA 9800 GTX. I had an 8800 GTS 512 before and could run UT99 at 1080p at like 600 fps. Remember that game is almost 20 years old by now. It probably needs less power than the newest windows solitaire tbh

Kaby lakes are even faster than the 9800 as they have HD 630. But not on the chart.

I used to max out Unreal on this

You could probably get 120 fps in Unreal Tournament on PCSX2 at this point

>1GHz polling rate
Surely you mean MHz

And what do you think the cloud services store shit on, exactly

RAM prices flatlined in 2014, manufacturers were barely able to make a profit. Smartphones and virtualization saved their bacon. Demand for DRAM has grown so much that the entire projected production for 2017 has already been pre-sold, supposedly.

Amazon Fire Tablet. The $50 one ofc.

Is it okay to buy an eBay libreboot thinkpad, or will it be a honeypot sold by FBI, with surveillance built in?

Maybe do your own research before throwing out buzzwords like that.

Shut up faggot

Is this okay to buy: ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-ThinkPad-T500-Libreboot-privacy-security-freedom-Tor-Darknet-2-8ghz-8gb-/152548805879?hash=item23849e0cf7:g:LcUAAOSwc-tY5A~A

inb4 diy
I don't want to spend an extra $60 for a BeagleBone that I don't know how to use just so I can fail at flashing the firmware myself and end up with a bricked laptop
sage

I'm looking to upgrade my GPU soon as part of a long term plan in upgrading my entire computer. I'm currently using a Radeon HD 7850 and I'm looking for an upgrade within my budget of $275 and I'm leaning towards AMD cards. Are there any good suggestions in this budget range?

...

Ok, so you don't know anything. Maybe just say that
Literally every user on this thread could have "done their own research," maybe we should just lock this thread then. The knowledge I'm seeking is more obscure than other anons asking about the best $100 tablet, Logitech 5.1 speakers, fucking Samsung Galaxy smartphones. You know what user, you are a fucking retard. I don't usually call people that but fuck you.
Pardon me for trying

someone seems a bit mad

Is it worth getting a used Sandisk Sansa Clip Zip? I have a Clip Sport but it's kinda shitty, it does work but the firmware is ass and it can freeze and not turn off at any moment.

Purchasing in a non-civilized country:
So /g/, these are my options for refurbished thinkpads where a live.
Prices are in ILS. 1ILS = 0.28 USD
Second hand costs only a bit less than refurbished, so I might as well
yes I know
bestrade.co.il/filter-cat.asp?c=14&f9=3

What would you recommend?

Best FOSS PDF reader?

github.com/sumatrapdfreader/sumatrapdf

Is there any real point to mATX when I'm just going to get a huge mATX case like the define mini anyway?

where can I buy a blank/linux preloaded laptop in the UK?

Just buy a laptop and wipe it yourself?

they make you pay for windows, waste of money

G-guise?

the screen under the glass on my note 3 broke, anyone know where is best to get a replacement?

howbout buying used since you're a poorfag. get an 1155 socket mobo and the i5-3570k (unlocked). used 16gb of ram and invest in good NEW SSD, PSU (used)

How would one go about paying cash for mullvad VPN (in an anonymous way, obviously)?

I was going to ask which VPN provider to buy, however mullvad seems like the best, most anonymous option. Is that right?

Nevermind, I figured it out (I think).
Apparently it's just sending a letter with money and the account number inside it.

I've been using a Lenovo G560 with Debian for quite a while now. I want to upgrade it since it's very slow for everyday tasks (Firefox and Chromium lag a lot on it and YT videos take almost 100 % CPU).

I want to change the CPU (an ancient Pentium) for an i7 640m (the maximum supported by the motherboard, it seems), the keyboard, the HDD and put at least 8 GB of RAM on it. The thing is, the CPUs are 150 $ new on Amazon and that's, frankly, a ludicrous amount for a 6 year-old CPU. The laptop would cost around 400 $ to upgrade, according to Amazon.

Other sites have those CPUs around 70 $, but they're used and I don't trust used CPUs.

Is there a better, cheaper, site to purchase those parts or should I just buy a new laptop with the 400 $?

I wouldn't waste money on CPU for such laptop. Just throw a SSD in. Get at least 4GB of RAM and you should be good.

By the way, there is nothing wrong with used CPUs if you decide to upgrade it anyway.

i7 640m is 50$ on aliexpress, shipping included

Does Cooler Master generally make respectable quality PSUs? Im having the option to get one for half the price right now. Im asking because I entend to go full overkill with a 700 watt one and I dont want to gamble.

Also hows the Intel p600 SSD quality? Theyre super cheap for M.2s and allegedly are 40% faster than their price bracket counterparts.

Are gaming laptops any good yet, or is it still wiser to build a desktop?
How versatile was the GPD Win for playing shit in the end? Is there anything else similar outside that piece of shit Smach Z?

What's a good VPN service for a new VPN user? Nord looks decent, but rather ask before jumping into anything.

I'm looking for a current AT&T phone that I can change my ROM on, not particularly picky with the ROM choice, but hopefully something light on resources, or capable of supporting a redshift-like function. if my choices are limited, I'll take whatever I can use to get rid of the stock bloat and bullshit.

If you want the least trouble and to avoid digging through XDA Unofficial ROM Threads pick an Officially supported one from the LineageOS wiki:

wiki.lineageos.org/devices/

What is the cheapest way to get product keys for things like Windows 7 Ultimate

Anyone?

Download a crack.

Had a good experience with Nord for about a year, but used P2P heavily which wasn't allowed on all of their servers for some retarded reason (encrypted the traffic and used it anyway), but they could still see my huge numbers of peer connections obviously, and at a certain point my client "magically" stopped working and none of their techs could figure out why, so they stopped responding to my support emails. Even their OpenVPN servers would refuse my credentials, so I'm positive they stored logs though their policy states that they don't.

Currently using PIA, and they are american-based so they're almost certainly botnet, however they have been subpoeaned in court for information regarding a client, and were not able to provide anything (or at least they say so, but it'd be foolish to lie about publicly available court docs) to the court in that instance, about the user's browsing.

So, PIA is seemingly adequate for avoiding the MAFIAA and for general privacy enhancement. I have transfered much more on PIA over P2P than I ever did on Nord, they required less information from me to create an account with them, and I have not had any "mysterious" connection issues for using P2P traffic across their networks.

The one downside is that there are at least a couple other anons who use this same service in my geographic region to shill, and I frequently have to change servers (sometimes several times a day, on a bad day) in order to ban evade successfully.

quality>rated wattage

You would be a fool to purchase something which would not provide your delicate equipment stable voltages under high loads and temperatures. I can almost guarantee you that if you are so concerned about price, you are not running quad SLI or some other such nonsense. I have been using a quality 550W PSU for the past 8 years with a 95W CPU, several large spinning rust hard drives, PCI cards, and a GPU that requires an 8+6 pin power connection with absolutely no issues. So unless your build has much higher requirements, 5-600W should suit your needs.
and FYI, using an inline meter to read wattage use, with my CPU and GPU pegged at 100% load via synthetic benchmark, my PSU never exceeded 250W draw

If yours is an average build, buy a Seasonic PSU in the low 500 range and you will never regret it. Intel SSDs are inferior to Samsung, but genrally much higher quality than the nigger brands i.e. Kingston, Mushkin, Adata, etc. so I would say you're safe, just verify those benchmarks in multiple places, because Intel is corrupt as fuck when it comes to paying off reviewers. They have been convicted in court for doing so in the past.

I need opinions on this build. I'm not planning to do any OCing, all I want is to play The Witcher 3 and other

Never ever buy Seagate.

I wanna buy an i7 kabylake to replace my i3, i just need a cooler for it, what cooler should i buy? I have a Rosewill R5 Mid tower.

...

Haha intel botnet n00ber

What are the best headphones I can get for around $300?

Hey folks. Gots questions. I'm currently sitting on a Nokia Lumina 920 w/ Win Phone 8.1 (and the NFC thingy, whatever that is) and I'm looking for a good Open source, Mobile OS to re-image it with. I am not sure how the hell to do that.
My first question: What's a good (actively tested and supported) OS?
My second question: where might I find some good tutorials on the subject of mobile OS buggery? I have certain settings in place that prohibit youtube and it's googly overlords, and I've also noticed that most tech forums are out-of-date as hell and even more trolly than the various chans.
I'm still digging on my end and if I find my own answers, I'll post them here t help out other newbie phone salvagers.

test

I have heard of firefox, ubuntu, and some cyanogen derivatives for mobile

look into hifiman or beyerdynamic

see

I've been looking into those, but the Ubuntu Mobile is currently 404, Sailfish only has Dl for developers and I'm still too noob to compile my own OS. Cyanogen is new to me. Looking that up now. Thanx.

Which chromebook is best chromebook?

libreboot.org/docs/hardware/c201.html

Directly from the Sager Notebook website? Newegg is selling Prostars, which are also Clevos IIRC. If I were only looking at heat management and build quality, what would you recommend?

I already have an Asus C300 which I plan to format and install Linux on it. But I've seen someone selling a T400 near me in mint condition for 110 euros. Is the cost of getting another laptop justified, even if it can be librebooted and debotneted?

Seeking white-listed (Libreboot compatible) wifi chip that will interchangeably work between an X60T and a X200T.

Oh, and image for guaranteed reply.

I'm currently using a pair of nvx xpt100 and was wondering that if I were to upgrade, which one would be the most worthwhile to get?

How/Where should I buy SATA and SCSI server drives?

Where would I go for hunting decent to quality CRTs?

I want to get a NAS but all the premade stuff looks pretty closed down and I'd like to take a shot at setting something up myself.
Do I just use a good small case and use regular parts or should I watch out for something more "non-homepc" style?
Oh and anything I should absolutely look out for software wise?

Try and get ECC Ram if it doesn't cost too much more.
I've read that ZFS deduplication uses decent CPU power, otherwise no need for powerful compute.

Need a high wattage power supply for shitcoin mining.

Most cost effective seems to be Enermax Maxrevo 1600 and Lepa 1600. Basically the same unit, just slight differences internally. Anyone have any experience with either?

Take a look at the FreeNAS forums and find your own personal sweetspot between price, performance, availability, and libre.

They're going to steer you towards server-grade components for lots of ECC RAM based on running ZFS. That may or may not be worth the price bump in your application.

After a bit of google-fu I figured out that those PSUs were shit.
I got a 600W Enermax PSU after considering local prices and my possible future needs.

Aight so Ive been using Shortcut to edid videos for a couple of days, however its been constantly crashing on me and seems to overload my i7 when working with greenscreen templates.

Is there a good free as in freedom alternative, or at least free as free beer?

I'm making a first time build on a PC and obviously want to get it working as soon as possible however I obviously need a GPU to do that. I want to put vega in it for the freesync but obviously it isn't out yet. Is it worth buying a cheaper gpu and setting up the computer and then upgrade to vega later or just wait it out till vega and not set up my computer until then?

If your CPU has integrated grafix, you dont need a dedicated GPU to run it.

it doesn't have one, it's a ryzen 5

What case do you guys use, I need to change mine.

I want to upgrade my prebuilt's HD 6670. What should I get that won't be a big jump in heat or power use?

My favorite autistic laptop detail is a "smart battery" option which lets you charge the battery up to 80% capacity and have it stop there. Perfect for my laptop because it's now relegated to being essentially nothing but a seedbox, and the low power, heat, and noise it generates is nice.

Mine used to be the ability to underclock to 800MHz to save battery life when you're doing non-processor-intensive tasks like web browsing, but somewhere along the line web browsing became full-processor-intensive and now I can't even look at a simple image board like 8ch at 800MHz.

It's fucking tragic, the overhead that browsers are requiring nowadays. I really fucking hope that if/when the SJW/communist/anti-meritocratic movement crashes, that there will be a software revolution.

Thanks, looked it up and picked some parts according to the minimum specs. It's supposed to be a small media server so I doubt it will eat resources that much.
My budget is rather small this time around, is there any better second hand way than ebay to get more industry grade stuff should I ever have more bucks in the future?

Looking for a solid state drive to keep my system files on (minimum of 20GB)

And a hybrid drive to keep the rest of my stuff on (minimum of 1TB)

What would YOU pick?

Picked Samsung for my last SSDs and WD for HDDs They have a nice color coding convention for HDDs for different purposes

The prices on SSDs vary so wildly,
it terrifies me.

It seems to have no correspondence to function either, unless there's something I'm clearly not seeing.

All SSDs are the same except Samsung's are slightly better and Kingston and PNY are dogshit. You don't want an M.2 or a PCIe SSD unless you do and you should know if you do.

just get a fucking thinkpad x220

Was about to ask what the fuck was going on here but I think I answered my own question.

This is good to know, btw.

They are one of those companies that has all their SSDs listed at higher prices than their competitors.

...

Suggestions for a laptop that has excellent thermal management? Considering getting an SLI laptop.

Please don't shitpost here, this thread is for helping people.

Please recommend me what you think is the best mechanical keyboard for gaming and a lot of typing documents for about 300 USD

...

My Sennheiser MX 375 earphones are broken and now I want to switch to wireless headphones.

Which ones are non-audiophile good without being too expensive?

Need good, cheap (under 45$ combined, can wait for sales if necessary) mouse and keyboard that can do well for gayman.

Buy refurbished Apple accessories.

G100s or G300s and a shitty free membrane keyboard who cares

I have a one strike policy for ISP's harassing me about torrenting, and am canceling my subscription to (((Spectrum))). Does anybody know how bad AT&T is?

do raspberry pi's have hardware backdoors? im making a phone out of one.

It's not the raspberry pi that you need to worry about, but the proprietary GSM modules. Those absolutely have hardware backdoors.

Open-source has nothing to do with trust.

I need a CPU cooler that will also keep my VRMs somehow cool. Anyone has anything to recommend? I don't care about noise much but space is somehow an issue (mATX board). They are a bit toasty after I started overlocking and have no cooling on them from the manufacturer so maybe some CPU cooler with enough clearance to fit some heatsink underneath?

GT 740 or the ZOTEC GTX 650?
I have both but was wondering which would be better for me?
Specs attached.

spend money on a better mouse and keyboard, or buy secondhand tbh.
www.wasdkeyboards .com
www.daskeyboard. com
www.corsair. com/en-eu/corsair-gaming-k70-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-blue-ch-9000115-eu

amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/

those are mouse / keyboards i would consider. favor spending more money on a good typing keyboard than a good mouse.

if you won't raise your budget find some secondhand shit on ebay.

I don't think that exists. There's little heatsinks you can glue onto your VRMs but keeping them cool is ultimately going to be up to your case airflow.

650

hey. so I have two choices of SSD one is 240gb and has a writing speed of 460mb/s and the other is a 128gb with a writing speed of 520mb/s. The 240g one is 10$ more expensive.
also any good cheap """""gaming""" mouse? I am thinking either msi ds200 or ds300 probably.

thanks

I'd like to get a cheap but reliable 3tb hdd to storage data and games, is the seagate ironwolf any good?

If you're using it for a boot drive the only thing you care about is 4k random. Go for the 240GB.

Is Mega a safe extension?
Some people seem to praise Kim, but he doesn't seem to be very open source.
Say what you will about piracy, I'm more concerned about privacy.

Mega is no longer ran by Kim Dotcom. (see pic related.) Use pomf clones like mixtape.moe

I am planning on getting a new smartphone and have my eyes on the HTC 10.
Any recommendations on anybody who has owned one?

The runner up that I am looking at is an LG V20 but it is more difficult for me to get and I mostly like it as I like being able to remove batteries from a phone and replace.

~500$ range

I have had the HTC one M8 for three years and it has been a brilliant phone but I smashed the screen many a months ago (whilst snowboarding it took a huge impact) and the battery and charging has started to play up in the last week so it seems worthwhile to get a new phone as screen replacement is almost as much as a new M8 alone.

Despite the battery fuckup after three years and expensive repair prospects it was an incredibly good phone. I would definitely recommend it. It has a great feel, very durable, a great screen and the speakers make it pretty good for watching movies and stuff if you do that. Software on it was also very good, it Is a very well designed phone if someone is looking for one at 200$-250$ I'm quite tempted to just buy one again but figure I may as well get a newer model.

Thoughts?

I really only getting a HTC as I was very satisfied with the M8, I am not normally a sucker for brands so and the 10 looks pretty damn different from the M8 so I'm kind of hoping someone talks me out of it...

Is it stupid for me to pair a GTX 1080 with a Ryzen 1600?
I figure it will keep its value better than a 1070 and it's only €100 dearer.
I have a 75Hz 1080p monitor.
Tempted to get a 7700k and 1080ti but I'd be eating canned tuna for the rest of the month and the same the month after for the monitor.

No, there's nothing wrong with that.

I want to buy a cheap 200 buck laptop off amazon. What info do I need to look for to make sure I can install windows on it? I know some UEFI bullshit is locked. Also, if anyone has some specific recommendations I would appreciate it. This is just a temporary laptop, and I need prime shipping to get it here quick, but I do want to try and get the most bang for my buck.

wtf. I don't want to install windows, I want to install Linux. I haven't used windows in almost a decade.

Cheap compact MP3 player to preserve my phone's battery for other things?

buy another phone.

So I want to upgrade my Pc but I know for sure I need to get new RAM and GPU, but im unsure as to the specifics of what I should get. I mainly play titanfall 2, build is below.

any suggestions budget is flexible

Apparently, my friend is going to study Animation or some other art shit, and she needs a laptop capable of this shit. What laptop is good enough for not so tech savvy grill who is going to use it for light gaming and lots of graphic work? I think that an used MacBook pro/air would be okay, as WINE can run quite a handful programs, also it would be the best for a normie animator. Do you have any other suggestions? Please keep it under 500€

Do NOT get an Air they're complete garbage. Netbook tier hardware for Apple tier price.

I'm not sure why you think you need new RAM when it's your CPU that's old as shit.

Is it worth getting a GPD Win for easier times for videogames on the go, or ignore it and try and do something with a Surface Pro 2.

Heavy, big and poor battery compared to a dedicated device. Looking for a bare bones thing I don't have to worry about damaging or losing because it is cheap.

1) Don't buy anything you don't need.

2) Don't waste any money on something you don't need.

3) If you buy something, make sure you buy something that is high quality.

are intel Xeon worth it for a CAD (SolodWorks) workstation ?
after watching some video on yt, its kinde hard to justify the price difference for the performance gain.

should i just wait for intel i9 or AMD threadripper ?
i'm not a corporate fag, just a small business owner btw.

Wait for Threadripper.

Intel plans to jew you out of workstation features like ECC and proper RAID if you don't buy Xeons or if you don't buy literal CPU DLC to unlock it, not kidding.

They are in panic mode but they aren't actually responding appropiately to AMD's offer. I'd guess it'll take at least a whole year after i9's launch before Intel's upper management decides to offer something competitive.

Is there a good place to buy drm free music other then bandcamp? Do any of these places sell mainstream stuff too?

As long as you can find CDs, you should be ok.

i'm using SolidWorks i got from torrent.
what are the odds of Dassault suing me ?
i live in a 3rd world country and there are no Dassult representatives here.

i don't even use it to make money or anything, its purly recrational.

I was kind of hoping they'd respond rationally by reducing prices to make their existent offerings more attractive. Intel still outperforms AMD across the board, but AMD is viewed as a better deal because it costs less than HALF as much. All Intel had to do was cut back on being greedy Jews for a quarter.

Whats the most powerful x86 cpu without trustzone, management engine, or anything similar?

Do you need anything that isn't food, water, and shelter?

Some of AMD's old FX chips. They were the very last ever made in human history without built-in botnet (AMD's PSP and Intel's ME). Humanity will never see a botnet free consumer processor ever again.

is there a list of specific models, then?

looking to upgrade my camera to something a little more midrange. I'm looking for at least the first one:

Nikon D3200 would be your best bet
Jpeg is the standard nigger. The D3200 can shoot RAW however, better get a decent SDCard because RAW images can be as high as 50MBs each

past ten megapixels, it completely pointless to use RAW. unless you're doing scientific analysis and you shoo with a full frame camera with a dedicated lens or telescope. artefacts aren't even an issue on photo editing or print at those resolution and are lesser than sensor noise.

1.) I only mentioned it because he was bitching about JPEG for some reason

2.) It is very useful for photo editing to use RAW since RAW preserves more detail when adjusting exposure/lighting in post production.

3.) Learn English

What's a quality AMD GPU that's around $100-200? It's been like 6 years since I last built a desktop and I know jack shit about the current GPU ecosystem besides

Basically I'm looking for something non-Nvidia to tide me over until the Vega launch has settled down down and benchmarks are done before I decide whether or not to actually get a Vega card. I'm putting a Ryzen CPU in this thing which means no iGPU. I don't need ultra 4K 144fps performance, but I don't want to buy a piece of garbage either incase I end up bailing out on the Vega completely and just sticking wit hit.

What is the current state of amd gpu's? I need a high end graphic card soon. How is the 580 compared to the 480, and is amd going to release something good anytime soon?

Anyone?

Looking for something that will fit into my pocket, won't break too easily in there and most importantly that I can ssh into my computer from home with, and, ideally, compile programs on the go (but simply editing text would be acceptable).

Perhaps there's an Android app or something for this, or some sort of Ubuntu phone? I was looking into something like the Zero Terminal, but something easier to do would be nicer.

I'm looking to eventually get rid of my phone, so something with wireless wifi reception would be essential. But this android idea may get me by until my contract is up.

Your best bet is hosting your own private VPN at home and then entering the VPN with your phone so you can connect to everything on the home network. There are some routers that let you do it automatically, and android has terminal apps. I wouldn't expose ssh to the outside world otherwise. There are too many chinese bots that do nothing but seek out random open ssh ports and try to gain access.

Did not know that, will the chinamen infiltrate my system when I'm at home on the local network?

If you have port 22 open to the outside internet there's always a risk. They can't get to it if you're using a VPN though, because once you're on the VPN then "port 22" is an internal port and you're looking at internal 192.168.x.x addresses. Externally the only thing that's open is port 154whogivesafuck for the VPN, and that one is less likely to have the chinese bots hitting it testing logins.

all I know is that wireless headphones are total trash.

I'm not expecting top-notch audiophile quality. I am simply tired of cables.

Can't really recommend anything, I only tested 250-400€ wireless headphones. I never even saw a cheap one yet.

My dad wanted to get my little brother a xbox one s.
We needed to connect to the botnet in order to make the console usable so I'm going to be returning it.
What the best GNU/linux gaming PC should I be getting that is under $400? My dad will be getting it and he spent $300 on it so please make it around that range.
What should I be installing on it? default gentoo with gnome?

I lost that webm I'm so glad you posted it. I wish I could help you with gaming user, at 300-400$ you're most likely gonna wanna build your own. You can definitely build something reasonable for that price. Buying prebuilt in that range is gonna be kind of hard, you might be farther ahead to go with a ps4 or some shit but I can't advocate for it. As for the OS I honestly can't say, it depends on what you want to play so I'd cater it towards that. I haven't gamed seriously in 4+ years so I'm not much help

Used R9 390, I guess. The 400 and 500 series are being scalped to shit by Etherium miners, they've jumped 50% in like three weeks.

580 is a refresh of the 480, it got minor performance and efficiency gains. Consumer Vega isn't coming until next quarter.

$300 isn't really possible without buying used parts, if you really need to hit $300 you're going to have to do your own research. $400 gets you something like this:

pcpartpicker.com/list/hT2KVY

Nvidia's closed source drivers are better than AMD's, AMD's open source drivers are better than Nvidia's.

Fucking memecoins.

Had a Ryzen 7 1700 for a couple of months now and the stock cooler isn't quite cutting it for overclocking. Temps rise to near 85C with video encoding when OC to 3.6ghz. Which air cooler should I get that does not obstruct the RAM sockets and is under $60? Bonus points for it being able to fit with a side case fan over it.

use cum, but only virgin cum, Chad cum doesn't conduct heat that well.

Glad to be of use, it's not for me it's for my brother. I've grown out of that stage but I don't want my brother to be datamined by Sony or Microsoft.

I'll probably be following your advice. I have not much clue what my brother would like so I don't have much perspective of what he would like to play.
Is he going to be limited by open source drivers in terms of games he could play?
I think I should give him a steam controller because he's that young.

More suggestions would be welcomed.

here
I've seen that spec a lot of times browsing but I thing the power unit should be higher, the ram could be a little lower, like 8 gb but 4 sticks and the cpu should be lower ghz but a lot more cores like 4 to 8 at 1-2 ghz with the graphic card just a bit higher.
I only think of this because it would mimic the console's. Is this a good assumption?

Devs code very carefully to a console's restrictions, they're much less careful when they port to PC.

Ok I'm following your advice but I'm not sure if I should get the 460 or 1050 ti.
How many games does it support and is going the vulkan route going to pay off with more games?
I have no clue.

How are you getting around HP's closed firmware issues? I can't even use the Proliants I picked up from a bin.

c.f.

God, I hope you haven't disappeared from this thread.

Red pill me on the Xiaomi Mi 5. Is it better than a galaxy s6, is it reliable?

1050ti is a stronger card than the 460 and if you're okay with closed source the drivers are just going to exaggerate the gap.

I managed to spill water on two laptops. I need a USB keyboard. I would prefer one that works with free as in GNU/freedom drivers, if there are any out there that are decent, but I'm not sure where to find which ones do. h-node doesn't have a category for it. Bonus points if it works with free firmware as well. Anyone have any suggestions?