It's been a little while since the last one, but I think we're a bit overdue for a good 'ol CRT thread...

You'd have to be like 16 to not have used a CRT even around the time the 360 and ps3 came out CRTs were the predominant TV. But good job trying to fit in faggot

...

They don't exist anymore over here, eBay killed them.

Is it a VGA CRT? I just finished calibrating my BVM-D14H5U and I decided to settle with just a little bit of overscan on the corners, an unnoticeable amount even. Have you been using the service menu or did you just stick with the standard consumer options?

Get a plasma TV.

Put your flag on like usual, attention whoring faggot.

never actually posted with one, and it appears there isn't a crt one so I won't be using it. Have you tried hiding threads you don't like? I still don't know why CRT's get people so incredibly angry. Most threads I don't care about I simply ignore or hide them.

It's a copy paste shill thread made by someone sitting one useless stock of CRTs. It's pretty obvious.

I have about 5 monitors, two more on the way and I'm not planning on selling them. The fuck are you talking about?

>>>/vr/
Go there faggot, that board needs bumps n threads.

Holy shit there's a lot of ass hurt lcd fags. No ones even attacking you losers, people just wanna talk about old displays you retards

And faggots should take it to >>>/vr/

No

every thread

this

dead board

I'm still trying to figure out why people get so defensive over crts, was there a little publicized, wide spread crt centric terrorist attack that happned when millenials were still kids?

the fuck?

why else would so many hyper autistic children freak out at such an incredibly unassuming and non-confrontational thread?

As the owner of /vr/ I don't agree. It's slow but the discussion is of high quality.

Anybody ever figure out how to really shield the sides of the damn things so the high pitch whine they put out isn't debilitatingly shrill? I'd consider one if I was capable of existing in the same general area as one without collapsing in pain. I really wish I was fucking kidding.

Because if not, I am real fuckin' glad they're uncommon now.

I bought a pvm for $45 but it doesn't have RGB. Where can I find a PVM/BVM that isn't $100+?

Look into brands that aren't sony. Look for panasonic, ikegami, jvc, sanyo, and be patient. Talk to local hospitals and if you have them, television studios nearby. Especially local news places. If you can, try to get in touch with security services or surveillance companies and ask about monitors they have in storage and try to get one that way. Also keep an eye out for older rgb standards, you don't necessarily have to use rgb through bnc. Otherwise camp ebay out and see if you can find some that way. You don't need a pvm or bvm, although they have a super sharp picture. Always look for the rgb/y/pb/pr inputs.

Is this easy to get going for older consoles? What would I need to do if I obtained one like this.

Meme thread.

I recognize that Ikegami, nice.

If you want composite, CH A and B are composite and you can get a RCA to BNC adapter at radioshack, if you want S-video use an S-video plug to hook it into the Y/C port and run it from that channel. And if you want to use RGB (why wouldn't you?), you're going to need RGB cables for the system - get SCART ones, there's a UK site called retrogamingcables or something that will get you the ones you want. From there, get a SCART to BNC adapter. wookieewin on ebay sells them.

Make sure you console supports RGB. If it's a Sega or Sony console, you're golden. If it's Nintendo, do some research. Your set also supports Yipper with the little switch next to the RGB ports. If you're using Yipper and not RGBS(sync), you can just use the previously mentioned RCA to BNC adapters. If the color doesn't seem right, order some 75ohm terminators from ebay, there may be interference from the other ports, you just plug up the ones not in use.

Any other questions?

oh, also since ikegami didn't label what is in and what is output, here you go. Red is where you plug into, blue is where you daisy chain other monitors to it, if you want to do that for whatever reason.

Thanks a lot for your help. Will look into buying this. Opportunity for buying locally doesn't come often living on an island with a few million potato eaters so postage is expensive as fuck and this is pretty much the only option I've seen. Still 300 dollarydoos but that's the premium I have to pay. If I don't like it I can pass it on to someone else at a reduced price. No real older consoles right now either but they're cheap enough. It will be a fun experiment to see if it brings back the magic.

I recommend the Saturn, and I am biased.

special snowflake thread

See, I'm not so sure the right is better. Might as well be playing on a LCD with a scanline overlay.

At some point I probably just need to play with one for a bit, but I feel like it would be too clear and pixelated looking. The blue glow on the left is more of a gradiant than on the BVM Monitor. They're so small though, so maybe not visible. Love my trusty old flat glass 27" Trinitron.

Raspi 3 with Analog out and Kodi/retropie makes maximum comfy.

I got a 3 for my bday. How?

Why is it that whenever someone starts a crt thread there needs to be atleast a few fags that pop up and shit on the thread for no appearant reason.
Also, anyone here just using a sd tv with just the red yellow and white cables? I see this talk about some sort of super cool crts but i am pretty fucking happy with this ordinary tv. All 6th gen and older consoles look nice with it and even some 7th gen games look good.

Edit the boot/config.txt

Look for sdtv_mode=0 and keep it at 0 for NTSC, or 2 for PAL.

Also look for "hdmi_force_hotplug=1" and comment it out, and add "hdmi_ignore_hotplug=1" below it.

Also need a special cable. A lot of 3.5mm to RCA cables don't work with raspi 3, but Zune (Those Microsoft MP3 players) had ones that are good quality and work with raspi 3. Just google "Zune A/V Output Cable (Discontinued by Manufacturer)" and you should be able to get it off amazon.

Managed to get the Ikegami TM20-17RPA for about 260 dollarydoos, which is reasonable compared to what else I might pay for a 20inch studio monitor. I see you burgers and even bongistan have more reasonable prices. It's a case of shipping across water = fuck you and this is pretty much the first 20 inch monitor I've seen available for me. I mean fuck it would've cost me 100+ dollarydoos to deliver if I wasn't driving to pick it up in person even though it's 60km or so away. Trying to justify my purchase.

So now I need cables and some systems to try out on it. What should I be picking up? I don't think these things have sound output options either of course. Most cost effective method to start would be like a SNES that uses the SDcard cartridge? I'm a framerate whore so I want 60fps too and not dogshit PAL50 so if there's an easy way around that. All of this is a whim, I didn't expect them to accept my offer, when in fact I should've went even lower.

So getting cables from retrogamingcables should be easy since I live next to bongistan. Do I need to worry about consoles regions/plug inputs and refresh rates or can we get aroaund all that now since pirate wizardry and stuff.

...

That's fucking magical. God bless you Japan.

afaik, it's always the games themselves that are running at 50/60hz, not the systems. I think there's some oddities out there, like the genesis which requires you to switch it through software, but you should be good for the most part. I'm American so look into it a bit and see what you can find. As far as cables go, if the system is old use scart, if it's newer (6th gen and up) you can use component-in. I prefer SCART for PS2 however. Anyway, keep it simple your first time around. Wii's a great system for CRTs because it's at best 480p. You can soft mod it and get the homebrew channel running in no time with the letter bomb, and from there you can try all kinds of emulators, and Wii and GC games look amazing at 480p on a professional CRT.

I personally use a pair of $18 PC speakers plugged into RCA-female adapters for my consoles. Nothing special but frankly they sound on point.

I think if you're just using RCA composite there is nothing wrong with that. CRTs display a 480i image far better than LCDs of any kind do. I prefer to look into the best display options and get very high end results out of these sets, and I do need to insist there is a huge difference compared to anything a professional monitor would give you over any consumer set, emulator, or LCD tv. From the way the images look at times, it feels like this was the way the developers saw them.

Ayy this nigga knows whats up!!! U got da gud posts dawg. I like em. Keep em comin homey bromey cuz dis aint a bad talent to hav!

Who PC CRT here? It's gorgeous for emulation, especially Gamecube and shit games.

The fuck kind of CRT do you have? Get a nicer one, it shouldn't be making any noise.

LCD Death Camps when?

the only CRTs that make noise are ones that have aged. Technically they all make noise, but it's such a high pitch the older you get the less you can hear it. For example, I know a few years ago I could hear the 15khz signal perfectly clearly, now I barely hear it but it's at the point where it plays I definitely register a disturbance in the environment. I do know some of my monitors with much heavier use make a sine wave noise, but I do adjust to it after a few moments. My BVM with 37K hours has no noise.

I feel you man, I actually got a RCA to 3.5mm audio converter and extension cord. Ise just plug the RCA audio from what ever I'm using into the converter, then use my headphones instead.

You do get used to it after a while of often use. When I started using my CRT again, I felt like my brain was going to explode. Now I can sorta ignore it.

when I got my first BVM I was expecting it, but honestly I didn't notice a thing.

Got my second Ikegami TM14-17R up and running. Looks amazing. Also if you haven't played Twinkle Star Sprites for whatever reason, get a friend over and get on that.

That whine is usually caused by a flyback transformer going bad.

Stop hoarding all the monitors

here's a few from previous threads. none of these are mine.

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Where does the time go?

I'd give up too much real estate on my desk or in my room to get one.

What's the point? You're supposed to sit from afar! You're not even supposed to notice them! I could barely even see them on my screen! WHAT"S THE FUCKING POINT OF PHOTOGRAPHING THE SCANLINES? DO YOU LITERALLY SIT WITH YOUR FACE GLUED TO THE FUCKING SCREEN? DO YOU COUNT EVERY SINGLE FUCKING LINE? DO YOU COUNT EVERY SINGLE PIXEL? WHAT FOR? WHAT, FUCKING, FOR?

SEDs never ever

Your probably right about the professional tvs but i just never bothered. I just like playing older games on an sd tv, they just look nicer to me. I have yet to even think of getting one of these flat screen tvs, hell i have yet to even get a pc monitor that is even capable of 1080p display.

Only in korean

This is stressing me out. I have a few days before I get the screen so I want to sort this out. Do I buy a Japanese or US SNES, and how easily will it be to pirate for them. I live in EU and I don't want 60hz.

If I go full blown pirate route, say a modded wii with emulators, will I be missing out or will they be fully configured and 99% identical to the real thing, particularly on the video output side. Also looked into buying one of those Xboxes loaded with Coinops. Main problem with Wii and Xbox is they're going to have dick all controller support.

I'm paranoid Holla Forums. I want to be as close to the real thing as possible particularly on the video side of things, and have good user input options.

I don't want to break the bank for a whim. Just want to avoid mistakes and get this connecting to the BNC things of the monitor. I need perfection or close to (diminishing returns). No input lag either.

I meant 50hz

You're fucked. Go for emulation.

For SNES, it's a bit of a mess. You can get a US one, but you'll want some more specific models to get good RGB out of it. retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html from there you can use a flash cart like SD2SNES or the SNES everdrive. It can be pretty expensive.

The Genesis is a very easy console to get great RGB out of, and back up loading it, flash carts are still a little expensive. Once you start getting into CD territory, there is the issue of failed drives, but generally in the case of Saturn's they still have a ways to go. Saturn was my first RGB console, and it was pretty inexpensive, and especially with pseudo saturn kai back up loading is extremely cheap and convenient.

Expect to put down a bit of money. My suggestion is to go for the most interesting/least expensive console for now. Ones with component out are very easy, things like the PS2, Xbox, Wii are pretty much ideal for this, especially because all their back up loading solutions are practical and pretty easy to set up. Also, don't stress over it. It's all pretty easy once you get down to it.

with a bit of modding in some cases, this is no problem, that and professional monitors pretty much all have 50/60 detection and support for both.

consider getting a small PVM, they're actually pretty compact.

buy them before I do

you don't know what scanlines are

I'm going to go with the Wii and retroarch, probably most convenient and guaranteed to work. Easy as fuck to obtain homebrew ret2go consoles and they can output the snes etc at native lower resolutions (xbox cannot do 240p AFAIK and has that crappy proprietary USB input). I already have an old PS2 but I'm not keen on modding one myself. only shit thing will be dealing with the lack of peripheral support. Don't think I want to play all older games on a gamecube controller though. Not sure how good the Wii classic controller Dpads are.

wii classic/wii classic pro is a great pad. Hori manufactures them.

We have 2 in our small town and I can visit about 12 more within a half hour distance. Thrift shops are often linked with good will associations. There's also about 3 dozen CRT's in my local thrift shop as well as cheap solid keyboards, controllers for various consoles and a few games. I got my Conkers Bad Furday N64 cartridge for $7 at my local thrift store and I never intend to sell it

it's always a great idea to explore thrift stores, check odd sections like cd racks and cassette sections. I've found genesis games in cassette racks and PS1 games in cd racks. It's amusing how often these things are poorly organized but you can absolutely find great stuff there. I think I'll go thrifting on Monday.

i wish hori had longer manufacturing runs on some of their controllers. i've had to replace a crappy stick on each of my gempad3's but it's still the easiest to acquire decent d-pad.

So I'm going to order 3 BNC converters for my Wii, and get a component cable to use with them. Got the monitor coming, a Wii classic pro controller coming and a Wii loaded with a bunch of games. Wii supports gamecube controller input also.

retrogamingcables.co.uk/audio-video-accessories/break-out-adapters/bnc-to-phono-rca-cinch-adapter-plug-for-composite-video-signal

Am I doing this right. Still stuck for how I'm going to obtain audio though. I like headphones, 3.5mm, but using the Red/white female to 3.5mm female cable I have the audi always sounded like shit (why?) on PS3/360 and of course you have no control over the volume levels. Any advice there?

Also do I need to buy terminators for all the unused outputs?

Ordering 3 BNC converters I think should cover what I need.

Kind of difficult to organise things like this during week when I work 12 hours a day or so but I can read this board quite a few times a day so it helps even if I'm not responding at all.

I use a simple RCA audio to 3.5mm female, and a pair of PC speakers. Not exactly amazing audio but it's definitely not bad sounding. You don't need terminators but it is not a bad idea to have them. Newer monitors have self-terminating BNC ports, usually denoted with a little wave. You don't even necessarily need them, only if you notice the picture is too bright for example would terminating the unused ports be useful in correcting interference. I imagine they are most useful in television studios where there are hundreds of active terminals.

I picked up a 27" Panasonic CT-2701G today for free with the original remote. Unfortunately, there are two issues with it. First, there's some green staining in the lower left corner, and second, the power button is broken on the TV so I can't get it to degauss itself.

I'm about to pry the button out (it doesn't "click"; the other buttons do and perform their requisite functions) but before I do I figured I'd ask here. I googled but didn't get much.

Anyway, the end goal is to avoid buying a degaussing gun for a free TV, and I think repairing/replacing/jerry-rigging this button is the best shot I have at that. Any solutions?

When your tv is powering up, do you hear a clicking noise during its start up? It is doing a degauss when you hear that. It should be a click, followed by a delay of maybe 5-10 seconds, and then another click once the picture has fully come in. The degaussing component may have been damaged at some point by magnetism.

If this is the case, you may need to get a degaussing coil…they are a little expensive, but are very reliable. The TVs internal degauss may still reset the tube to its settings, but you can disconnect it so it doesn't degauss on start up.

I've got a question about mine also. The top and bottom parts of my TV always cut off part of the games. It obscures a lot of shit. especially if its old arcade style games with the life bar at the top and subtitles and score at the bottom.

Is there any way to fix this? Or is it just old and shit now?

could be a headache, could be easy. What kind of monitor do you have? Depending on that, you may need to open the chassis and adjust the screen geometry based on little screw things on the monitors internals. If you have a more recent one, you may have a simple to use maintenance/service menu. You can use this menu to adjust every part of the displays geometry, it is a good idea to run the 240p test suite to get the picture lined up neatly. I do know my Ikegami monitor actually has a scan function so it just scans the source and automatically fits it to the display, 1:1.

That was a bit of a mess up there, but it still may be worth reading. Here, you have two options at hand.

1. Use your monitors service menu, if it has one. Not all of them do, it is usually secured with a password (usually something simple by default, such as 1111, 1234, 9999, 4444, etc. - look up your manufacturers manuals for maintenance.) These give you access to adjust all of your sets geometry settings. This is the best, and easiest way to do it. Your set may also have a scan input option. One of mine does.

2. Open the chassis, insulate yourself (rubber gloves, insulated screw driver) and rotate the little screws that are on the board usually denoted with what they change on the screen geometry. Your monitor must be on while you do this. This is pretty much how older sets have to be adjusted. You should be able to fix the overscan this way.

Yeah, it does the -click- whooom thing that it should. I turned it off and on several times with the remote and the staining has disappeared.

When I was looking this up for some reason I got the impression that the only way it would "really degauss" was if the power button on the tv itself was pressed.

Thanks for the advice! I'm pretty new to the whole "taking CRTs seriously again" thing.

good! The damage was much less than it could have been. One of my BVMs had magnetic damage from poorly guarded speakers. I was pretty upset, so I swapped it out with another one I got after a little bit. I booted it up again the other day and noticed the magnetic damage had disappeared. It's interesting. Funnily enough, you can even get magnetic interference from the compass direction your monitor is pointed. The manual for my BVM actually describes just that.

makes me wonder if we should be doing this inside of a Faraday cage. I have another thing to troubleshoot, now that I have gotten past the color issue.

I have a MadCatz all-in-one cable I tried to run the S-video through on my PS2 and Gamecube, and I ran into one common issue between them and one issue I've only seen with the Gamecube. Neither has audio when I run S-video, and the Gamecube has 5 horizontal blue lines running across the top of the screen. Any idea what the issue is?
Shitty cable or shitty input port or shitty internals?

the gamecube may be sending out junk data with some games that was originally supposed to be cut off in the CRTs overscan. It's just on the very top of the screen, like at the edge, yeah? And only for the gamecube?

S-video also has no audio, check your sets' settings for an audio source and see if any of the red/white rca audio jacks are in the same bordered area around the s-video plug.

that is correct about the Gamecube. They are all at the top of the screen. It's playable but annoying.

As for the audio stuff, I'm just an idiot and didn't think to plug in the audio jacks. Spoiled by HDMI doing everything and I thought a video cable was gonna do that for me for some reason.

the game I was testing was Wind Waker by the way

try a few different games. You may get different results, if not, maybe the very specific gamecube part of the S-video cable is fucked up?

what?

Many modern rhythm games have a timing correction which fucks with the window of input depending on your displays lag. CRTs didn't have this problem. Playing Rhythm Heaven Fever on the Wii, it's a world of difference with a CRT vs an LCD.

Seriously, guy. I got a 14-17r the other day and it cost me 200 dollars

buy 'em before I do. I have a 13" Panasonic with RGB on the way, gonna save up money for a bit and try to get an HD widescreen one soon.

So the 14 inchers will be safe. For now.

There's also no denying the high levels of radioations they expose you to

no more than when you heat up your dinner for one. Actually, probably a lot less.

but you should adjust that option to the display lag, i dont really understand how this is a problem. and if its about slightly darker blacks, why dont you use a plasma?
i dont know what screens you tested that on, but i dont think you would have that big of a difference if you used a higher quality modern tv. that being said, feel free to prove me wrong.

and if you don't exclusively play modern rhythm games? Uh-oh, a brick wall. I also quite like games that are designed for 240p, something that would either require a $300 upscaler to get good results out of, or I can just cut the middle man out, get a CRT, get the intended look and feel for these games, and not have to ponder on what kind of light gun games I'm missing out on. It's hard to stress or even show how great these games look on a CRT with high quality phosphors.

If you're curious about learning more, the embed is a decent place to start. Classic games simply never looked better. Modern TV's are not higher quality. Especially not for what I'm using CRT's for.

en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_CRT,_LCD,_Plasma,_and_OLED
probably not the best source but whatever. i'm on mobile right now.

contrast:
>15000:1 (crt)
10000 (plasma)
colordepth:
24-bit per pixel resolution; offers better resolution for grayscale (crt)
6 to 8-bit per subpixel panels; best color gamut (plasma)
responsetime:
Less than 1 µs (crt)
Less than 1 µs; can get up to 0.001 µs (plasma)

etc. i think you could figure out a workaround for every problem you have with modern tvs - you just dont want to. i dont see a single meaningful advantage of crts.
also, what old rhythmgames are you talking about? honestly curious

pretty much any rhythm game on the ps2 and older. There are workarounds, they are incredibly expensive and don't produce the most desirable results.

Thanks user. Hope it works

Got another new monitor. Panasonic m1310y.

can nayon rerommend a goot CTR 100hz+ and 21:9 aspect ratio (QHD or whatiever it's called resolution)?

Are there any CRTs that aren't 500 neetbux? Also how can I buy them online but also make sure they won't make an annoying high pitched noise, that seems to happen a lot for old CRTs?

500+ *

I'm lucky enough to have space in my room for a CRT. I use it to play gen5 and older games without lag.
It's come very far, but it's nowhere near perfect. Besides, I think we can all agree that much of our enjoyment when playing vidya is intangible… The soft hum of a CRT makes for a special environment.

Seriously, you're missing out, fam. It might not be RGB sexiness, but it sure makes the Genesis look a hell of a lot cleaner.

Craigslist, nigga. Do research on what you find.

If you find a WEGA Trinitron, don't hesitate, snap it up, especially if it's cheap, but bring a buddy unless you're /fit/ enough to schlep 150 some pounds of GLORY.

Emulating with a scanline filter is just as good. Why buy expensive antique hardware?

...

I dont have the space for that shit

They come in a variety of sizes, but they're all way heavier than regular CRTs of the same size.

Otherwise, just go searching for a decent one. My desk Emerson's a pretty slick consumer-grade unit that I totally stole from a dorm laundry room. Fucker just abandoned it

I found one in perfect condition for $30 on craigslist, buts its yuge

Throw up an image bruv.

Let's see what you've found.

...

See if you can get a model number out of them, then we can figure out the details.

They're rather awesome

I think you're missing the point.

people really like to over exaggerate the size of these things. I'm becoming a little concerned that some of you are either hoarders or live in literal closets.

get a 13" PVM or something.

Just a demonstration. Though I rarely play games on it at all except if it's 480i/p stuff on the PS2/GCN.

Anything 240p goes to the Emerson because the Trinitrons have no scanlines.

To be fair, they might be imagining they're huge based on weight, given that they get heavier at an exponential rate to screen size. A little 13" weighs maybe 15 pounds, but a 30" weighs in the 100 pound range, if not heavier.

Though i will be honestl, finding somewhere to tuck a 30" widescreen CRT is a bit of a pain.

These still look better on a 1080p monitor.

they look horrible on a 1080p monitor because the PS2 is largely a 480i system and GC games are at best 480p.

You won't be getting very good results out of a 30" widescreen crt anyway. Only makes sense to go for more practical ones with what you're doing with them.

How, exactly, do you propose I get 1080p out of a machine that barely supports 1080i in only three games?

And don't you dare say emulation because you can take that inaccurate shit and cram it right up your ass.

Get a quality upscaler.

Why bother with a fucking upscaler when I have the exact screens these things were tailor made to use?

lol

...

they were, being retarded doesn't change it.

How young would you have to be to have never used a tube tv for videogames? I thought the userbase here was way older than halfchan.

The difference between composite & RGB is absolutely huge when you see it for the first time.

You wish. They're not exactly easy to find. They're not consumer tubes, so they weren't made in large quantities.

Most of the places I've been to don't carry them anymore anyway. Too big they say.

See what I did there?

They sure are built to last. 50,000 to 100,00 on non stop isn't out of the ordinary for these things. At that point the fly-back noise would be pretty bad, but they should still work in ideal conditions. I wish OLED didn't burn out so quickly.

So Holla Forums is full of 16 year olds? How the hell did they even find this place? I thought we were delisted from google search results.

Must be a regional thing. I'm in Florida & we have a shit ton of Pawn shops down here. A few have CRTs.

They were though. PS2 has plenty of 2D games, & low poly PS2 games were built with interlaced images in mind. Not saying they don't look better emulated on a PC (PCSX2 is fucking magical) but don't say they weren't designed for them when they were designed ON them.

That's cute that you think that. Let me take all those useless snes carts & Vinyl records off your hands while I'm at it. They're worthless right?

I've got 3 myself. When I setup my game room I might buy another. There's a 900 line BVM I've been eyeing.

Zero Traffic bro.

People fear what they don't understand. Some people are just going to be outright insulted by the idea of using them.

I use electrical tape. I'm sure it's a bad idea due to not being able to vent heat properly, but I've never had a problem with it. Alternatively you could put some of those triangle foam blocks near it to absorb sound.

being designed on them is the same as being designed for them.

I'm glad we agree.

Not sure why there are so many master rusemen in our midst. CRTfags aren't so obnoxious as to incessantly press the issue.

Anyway, can anyone tell me about PAL 60hz? My TV supports NTSC 60 but not PAL 60. What the fuck did they change to make it selectively not work? It's wierd and annoying.

There's a PVM CRT around my area that's 14in. For CRT friends, is that a good enough size for you? Or do you prefer a larger size?

Playstation has pixel-perfect emulation and is 3D, get a N64 or a Saturn since at least one of those has shit emulation and it's not the Saturn.

Size is down to personal preference. You're the one who's going to play games on it, you're the one who should be happy. I personally prefer my displays around 20"
if the price is right, go for it. Those are quality displays, originally made for video editing etc.

I marathoned castlevania and it looks so awesome, I can't fucking believe it.

what sort of country is on such old hardware, if you don't mind my asking? though i suppose i'm not very surprised, given that most third world currencies are really weak.

Venezuela. To be fair, secretaries and judges have more modern PCs, but I'm glad they have CTRs. In fact, if they think about throwing some, I'll ask the tech department guy for one. Here's the best part.
Already finished Fullthrottle, want to hear a funny story about it?

hah! thats pretty sick. why is your court of law doing nothing? corruption? incompetence? crazy efficiency on '99 hardware? here in ausfaggyland we have a backlog of court cases.

and how are your windows 2000 computers administered? does your admin use win2k server? that's crazy antiquated, as a networking student i'd love to see that if so.
also some dudes have actually created fan-made service pack updates for win2k, so that's cool.

Is because of the nature of out instance. We are an special court made a few years ago that deal with really old cases. At first it was pretty hard having to deal with 1000+ cases we got from 1980 to 2007. Once we dealt with them we pretty much have anything else to do. We still receive them Because they occasionally find old cases to this day since the whole storage is a mess, but we deal with them pretty quick,

About the computer administration, I'm not really too sure since I don't have a lot of technical knowledge about it. As far as I'm aware, since they're able to connect to the network I can just put stuff in the shared folder and play from there. For being that old they're fairly fast for what they need to do, although they freeze in some internet pages for the lack of RAM, I think.

Isn't PAL 60 the same as NTSC 60? I've only ever used Pal60 on my Wii to get RGB out of it since american wii consoles don't do NTSC RGB for some reason.

It's hard to convince someone without seeing it in person isn't it?

I got a copy of Full throttle for $2 the other day. Good shit. Games bring everyone together.

Don't misunderstand me, I grew uo with CRT tvs and screens, but I never appreciated them.

PAL60 doesn't work on ordinary PAL screens. I don't know what you have to do to get it to work. I think they're from south america or some shit. It's a billion times better to just get component working.

Screen arrived. Wasn't supplied with a power cable as pictured, using my LCD monitor power cable instead, hope okay. Screen crackled a lot when first turned on. Contrast button dial is pushed all the way in and cant get out. Chasis isn't completely sealed at the back-top. Screen cracklles for good 30 seconds when turned off. Noticeable high pitched noise when turned on.

Don't have wii yet so connected OG Xbox via component using BNC adapters but can't seem to find out how to choose the right source to get it to display. Have picture from front that someone else has taken if someone has ideas.

I'm a little worried from a safety and quality standpoint, but maybe these are normal.

Push the buttons to pop them out

Contrast button is stuck all the way in unfortunately, doesn't pop out at all. Got the xbox outputting video now. My component cables for it were already buggered though so it's not 100%. Main problem right now is the display is all tinted in green. Think that's to do with sync? Something I don't have or know how to fix.

make sure the switch at the back is set to YPbPr and that you connected the cables to the correct ports

Thanks user, I had switch it several times earlier but thought I had it right when I finally got the actual picture displayed so left it where it was. That was it.

Picture doesn't do is justice, haven't configured anything though either. Still converened about the hissing, the stuck contrast button and any potential godly x-rays that might coming out of it. Am I safe or should I worry? I notice my hairs don't stick up when I put my arms near the screen, which used to happen with the old CRT.

You are a stupid nigger, aren't you?

Don't worry about weird noises and stuff that's just part of the analogue display experience

I don't know much about CRT's, but the local vidya shop near me bought a bunch of them since they started hosting tournaments and I thought that was pretty rad

Litmus test for a good game shop right there. The fact that they even know what an RGB monitor is speaks a lot. Ask them if they did the SNES mini mod to get RGB out of it. That's the best snes model to have.

You're European, right? Make sure your Xbox is modded, I don't think it supports 480p, 720p, or 1080i otherwise. Modding is very easy too. It's very difficult to get a good photo of a CRT in action, only person I've seen do it is phonedork who uses like a $800 camera for it.

there is radiation but it is harmless. This is pretty much and old wives tale, nothing ever came from it, and no one ever got cancer from using a CRT.

mine does when I put my arms like right up to it, within an inch, don't worry about that either.

I only convinced mine to use consumer CRTs, which do make games look a lot better, but it's not the same.

looking at the SCART cable in the back, it's obviously a scart to BNC adapter, so it's safe to assume it's RGB modded.

CRT is definitely not just a meme. When I played old games on emulator and consoles hooked up to LCDs of all sizes I've always remarked how the fuck people play those old games that look like shit, usually resulting into having to boost the ever loving fuck out of the rendering resolution for 3D games on emulator, HD textures, all that jazz. But when you play them on a cute 20" CRT, they look absolutely fine…. maybe even better than the emulator improved [email protected]/* */ I don't feel fazed by anything visually with this CRT, where as usually we need to get rid of every jaggy to compensate with LCD. There doesn't feel like there's any strain on your eyes either on a CRT. I'm interested to see how lower framerates will feel too when I get to that with some emulated N64 games maybe. Gonna hop out to buy some PC speakers tomorrow or Saturday that also allow me to plug in some headphones with volume control for convenience.

I think the screen itself must be in PAL mode, because I believe it supports both, not sure how to switch yet myself cause I don't see any buttons for it. Maybe automatic.

Mine don't stick up at all which is the concern, like there's no static on the screen that should be there, making me think something isn't right.

Ignore the first >> btw. It's just a general thoughts.

I'm pretty sure most ikegami monitors, like most professional monitors have 50/60hz detection. But really, mod your Xbox, you will be able to get 480p out of it will just scream on your monitor. The 17R series isn't an HD series, but it does do 480p and it will look absolutely stunning. All you'll need is a compatible storage device (PSPs always work for example), USB female to Xbox USB cable, and a copy of splinter cell with the black label (these are super cheap). Load up the hacked save data and follow the instructions.

Ah you're right. What's the name of the store? I wouldn't mind dropping by.

Disregard that, I'm retarded. New york is too far for me to go anyway. Cool to see you have a good game store in your area though.

Started looking into a 20" HD ikegami monitor. Supports up to 1080i but it is 4:3. Still extremely tempting.

There's a couple of PVM9L3s not too difficult for me to get to, for 150 bucks each. But that's quite a lot for such a small screen. Shame. Seeing these threads all the time makes me kinda want one, although I wouldn't really get any benefit.

All I have is my old Mega Drive II with a handful of games and uh, N64 with even fewer. Still, if I saw a decent sized one for a similar price I'd probably bite.

That's bloody adorable.

So I have a semi old PC lying around with a card that's capable of s-video output. I also have a TV with composite in, and a converter between the two.
Is there any point in using it for older vidya? Will it look good? Do these TV outputs on PC have lag? Is it difficult to get it to use the right video mode with emulation? Do I install Ubuntu or Windows XP?

Reminder you could find meaningful crt discussion in /vr/, especially since it has been resurrected recently. I'm too poor to afford one myself, but I know I would buy one in a heartbeat for Dino crisis 1&2

Use a CRT monitor over VGA. S-Video a shit for pixel clarity above 320x240

If I wanted to play PS2 games on the CRT is it as simple as buying a "Mcboot" memory card and USB stick? Last time I tried a few years ago I used SwapMagic and it was a pain in the fucking ass to get working. Interested in playing a few lightgun PS2 games in particular so need the CRT. Getting the games isn't a problem as much as getting the 60hz NTSC versions , and then run on my PAL PS2.

I suggest HDD loading thru OPL or ethernet on a fat, freemcboot and OPL with ethernet loading on a slim (don't play thru USB, it's too slow)

You have to patch each ISO before you burn eat disc, but yes, it's that simple.

There was something called SED tv that was in development that might've been what you were looking for. Sadly, LCDs became the norm once they were cost effective. So SED was dropped.

With FreeMCBoot you have quite a few options for booting games.

If you have a fat PS2 + network adapter I'd recommend installing a HDD and using OPL, but for slimline consoles it's either SMB/network loading via OPL or booting patched discs with ESR.

USB loading has too many issues outside of the speed limitation to really recommend.

Kill me…

Any of my CRT brother monks know how to convert RGBs to RGBHV… I think I might have something here.

YO BUT GUYS WHAT ABOUT HD CRT TVS

You could possibly be able to use something like this
:
arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/Sync-Strike::15.html?MODsid=14743b5862dbdeebd0d4ebf6b0eb02ef

The catch being that the monitor still might not support a refresh rate that low.

LIKE BACK IN MY HIGH SCHOOL DAYS MY TEACHER HAD THIS SHIT FOR GAMING CLUB AND SMASH BROS MELEE SO SMOOTH

*was so smooth

>CRT does [email protected]/* */
Even if it doesn't work, fuck it, that's a bitchin' PC CRT.

Good for 640*480i/p video. Not as good for lower res.

Amazing for animation and movies though. That gaussian blur, color depth, contrast and natural frame interpolation makes it look marvelous.

had that tv like 10 years ago. There is an unfortunate amount of processing that takes place. CRTs may have a superior way of displaying picture, but when you interfere with the way it best handles pictures, through analog, you get very lackluster results. Also the displays caps at 1080i, haven't seen an HD CRT that does 1080p but you don't really need that with gen6 and older games, which almost entirely are analog only.

So if I get a PS2 setup with free Mcboot and an HDD, do I need to have the original discs to play games or can you throw them straight onto the HDD from downloading iso via PC?

You should be able to boot them from the HDD. At least I can.

Use the boot from Network option. PS2s only have USB 1.1, meaning they're slow as hell.

Who let Holla Forums in?

The representation of #000000 on screen, not the race, Holla Forums, calm your tits.

I think there should be a way to connect the hard drive to a modern PC with an IDE to USB cable adapter so you can just load it up with ISO filed, but I've never done it. Anyone have experience with this?

IDE to SATA or USB 2.0 dongles exist.

I bought the PS2 with all the necessary shit and ordered an IDE-USB adapter. More expensive that I would've liked, but will save lots of money instead of paying high prices just to try random games out. Particularly obscure autistic priced shit like Devil Summoner 2 for over 200 dollarydoos. Also region free. Also 60hz.

Coupled with the Wii loaded with all the necessary emulators I think that's a killer combo. Will have Gamecube, Wii, PS2, PSX, and all the 8bit/16bit/MAME shit covered with 2 consoles all ready to go on my trusty CRT. Mostly an issue of accessories at this point.

We have to go back.

Why?

get a sega saturn next.

You don't need the original discs. You can just throw them on and it boots so long as you have a memory card with FreeMcboot and OPL. But you'll need a fat PS2, the network adapter, and an IDE drive, as well as an IDE to usb adapter with power source. Sounds like a lot, but once you have it the set-up is pretty sweet.

only problem is some games don't read well through OPL and from an IDE HDD or network. Klonoa 2 comes to mind, bit of a shame. I haven't figured out how to boot burned DVD copies of games, but this would be a good work around.

You can still get screen tearing?
Also I really didn't change the settings from my LCD monitors

Thankfully the majority of PS2 titles are actually pretty fucking cheap thanks in part to the massive print runs and normalfags not giving a fuck about it just yet.

It is shame that you have to mod the genesis to support S-Video.

It's not that hard. The most annoying part is soldering to the legs of the IC, and even then it's not that bad, it's a through-hole IC.

Hell, it can even be done with a flush-mount S-Video jack to keep it all nice and clean.

Swap magic was the sweetest gift i got in a while. Eventually FMCB came to be and it fell from grace. But its still good for a couple dvd9 games

It supports RGB natively though. You need a euro scart to BNC cable, but still. No modding needed.

I know that. I'm just saying the game looks like shit because it uses a lot of dithering.

Play Thunder Force IV/Lightening Force and revel in that glorious high contrast parallax

I found a 13" Sony Trinitron KV-1397R for $80 on Craigslist. Worth getting?

$80 for a consumer grade CRT that doesn't even have S-Video? Tell them to go fuck themselves.

Wait a tick, you from a certain Armpit-of-the-east-coast state full of oompa loompas? I think I found the very TV you're talking about. Again, tell the asshole to either go for $20 or he can go fuck himself, also remind him it is a violation of eBay's TOS to sell items on the side once they're listed on ebay.

Fucking morons go on ebay, see the prices people are asking for CRTs and think their POS from the basement is worth money.

i got a 28" trinitron with component input for $30 yesterday, you're getting jewed hard.

Also, do you get sweet scanlines with component input? i plan to use this with a Wii as my emulator setup for the next 10 years

The black scanline effect comes from 240p content being displayed with no processing. You only won't get the black scanlines on a crt if that signal is being interfered with.

Depends on the Trinitron. A WEGA FD will strip scanlines, since not only is it a digital CRT, but it recognizes 240p properly. Older SD Analog models might retain scanlines.

Source: Own several consumer CRTs, including a 30" widescreen WEGA

Are you sure about that? I've seen some people suggest S-Video cables for Gamecube as a cheap upgrade from composite if component cables (for Wii or GC) aren't an option.

I once got a S-Video cable for the ps2 and the image was very flickery, i had to go back to composite because my eyes couldn't take it, that is why i plan to try component this time around, i'd wish i had enough to buy a professional CRT but these things cost an arm over here because most medical facilities still rely on tech from the 90's

or is $400 for PVM 20MDU a fair deal?

N O

For ps2 component is decent but the system puts out a pretty weak ypbpr signal. RGB scart provides a far better image. There's even ps2 scart cables with composite rca so you can use your guncon2.

No, thats too much. I'd say at 300 would be pushing it for an sd pvm. Try reaching out to local tv studios and hospitals.

well …just ..

it's impossible to get a scart tv here in Argentina i tried searching and the only one i found was broken.

user is talking out his ass. While RGB is best, Component is a damn sight better than Composite. Not sure if it's that different to S-Video, don't have a meaningful way to check.

What's the TV model inn the 1st and 4th pic?

Sony PVM

Never said yipper was worse than composite, it's obviously not. PS2's rca component signal is just a little weak, there's a better solution.

So, I might need a scan doubler. Any suggestions?